[Evgeni]

Hi mate,
Probably a good time to invest in an elm connector and download forscan to get an overall picture of what is going on. I got mine for under $20, so it is well worth it when you are trying to solve an issue such as this.
Good thing is you have replaced a lot of the sensors so you can rely on
the data you will be getting.

In relation to the coolant temp sensor I was discussing this a while ago with another forum member and the voltage at operating temp was around 3.8v or something like that. I was expecting it to be lower, but checked on my car and it seems to be the norm.

Do you know what the code was? Maybe nothing, but check that you have a constant 5v feed at the tps, and a ground that is under 100mv. You want these to remain stable whilst snapping the throttle a number of times. This at least will get the spotlight off the computer.

The computer switches each coil on and off by giving the coils ground. If you are suspecting anything, perhaps have a look at what is feeding it - alternator output, and crank signal. By unplugging the sensor you will see 5v from one of the wires and nothing on the other. The wire with nothing is the one that will trigger the coils. It is a/c voltage - you want to see something that doesn't fluctuate at idle. Note that it does increase in frequency and magnitude at higher rpm.

Does pinching off the return line on the fuel rail change anything at idle?
Misses at idle usually point to a vac leak - you can track it down using o2 sensor readings and fuel trims. Sometimes spraying carb clean wont pick it up.

Anyway, just some thoughts to get some direction.