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Old 15-05-2005, 02:46 PM   #46
Timmeh
Fairmont Ghia
 
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NSW
Posts: 2,144
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(Click on the photos for a larger version)



It was time to start looking at other parts of the car. I knew for a fact the heater assembly was not working correctly, so my aim was to get that out so I could start working on it. That was easily done, just by undoing some bolts, hoses, and pulling it out. Ryan (AusXH) showed me how well an 8mm socket and extension fit inside the heater assembly during removal, but it was good laughs and straight forward removing it.



While Ryan was testing the comfort of the Recaros in an alternate position, with his head under the dash and feet up at the roof, he made the discovery we'd been waiting to find. There is some minor rust underneath the dash way up in the corners, so that will have to be attended to when the car gets tubbed. The steering column came out fairly easily, Ryans much wanted trophy for the night, to get the thing out! Not sure I want to keep the ugly factory steering wheel though.



The interior minus the heater, heater console, glovebox, centre console, steering column, and other assorted bits of trim. The actual dash is metal and welded to the chassis, but the instrument cluster can come out, to be restored.

At least it gives me some toys to play with and get working, while the engine work continues on the side. I expect at this stage to continue to strip the car of as much as possible, but keeping the chassis on wheels so I can tow it to a panel beater and get the car tubbed and rust removed while everything is out of it.

Ok, it's question time for you guys:

Engine:

I heard K-Line Bronze Valve Guides are the go for replacing the ones from my original head. Anyone disagree or know something else here?

When converting a leaded engine to unleaded, I have been told by a couple of high performance engine builders that you only need to get the exhaust valve seats hardened, is that generally accepted or do people do all of them?

I need to start looking for a good set of rods and pistons for the 2.0L Pinto, does anyone have any advice as to good manfacturers / retailers of these?

How strong is the crank? It looks like a touch beefcake, are looks deceiving or is it tough?

Interior:

No real questions at the moment, but any comments are appreciated!

Tim
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