2001 AUII ute immobilizer problems

[FuriousFord]

Hi Guys n Gals. Newbie here and have an immobilizer issue with my newly acquired ute. Had an issue with park lights not working and without a manual I was checking interior fuses and relays for blown ones, but have somehow triggered the immobilizer and now the ute won't start. From reading online issue with my problem, I believe it has something to do with the Smartshield system preventing it from starting. Immobilizer hand on dash is flashing and when I turn key nothing happens. Ute was fully driveable until I had the light issue and started checking fuses/relays. Only have one key and no remote(keypad). After disconnecting and reconnecting battery, the word base comes up on the dash for about five seconds before the odometer kms is displayed. I know this problem has been resolved in previous threads, but I am new here and navigating around this forum isn't as easy as I thought. I live in a small community in Central Queensland and nearest Ford dealership is over 120kms away, so I'm stranded as I have no other vehicles registered. Any advice or links to any possible resolution would be greatly appreciated.

[foxtrot3]

Hi. Dont worry about the word "Base" displaying on the dash, they all said what dash was in them when you hook up the battery. The main things to check are the interior light fuse and the reverse light fuse and if the car is in park. Also try giving the dash a thump just above your left knee when trying to start it. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

Thanks for the prompt reply mate. Will give it a go now. Any idea what number the fuse is for the interior light and reverse light? I got no fuse diagram or workshop manual. The interior light was on yesterday, but is now off for some reason. I read somewhere that the interior light and demister fuse has something to do with the Smartshield system too.

[lumen8]

Id try turn the ignition to the on position and jump start it by pulling the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box, and joining pins 30 and 87 with a short jumper wire. The jumper wire needs a spade terminal crimped on at either end.

This will make the starter motor work and crank the engine, see if it starts and runs. Obviously dont leave the jumper wire on if it does start, or the starter motor will keep turning, it would be akin to holding the key turned to the cranking position.

Make sure you take precautions so the car doesnt move of course, preferrably have someone sit in it with the clutch in if its a manual, if its an auto make sure its in park.

[FuriousFord]

Okay will give that a try too lumen8, as bash the dash didn't work foxtrot3. Reverse light is working bu interior light still isn't working. When I pulled the demister fuse relay yesterday and reinserted it, the car tried starting but died less than 5 seconds after starting. This happened when I tried turning it over 3 times, but on the forth nothing happened.

[lumen8]

Can you hear the fuel pump working when you turn the ignition on?

[FuriousFord]

Yeah lumen8. The fuel pump works when I try turn it over.

[FuriousFord]

Nah still a no goer. Turned key to on position and fuel pump feeds fuel to injectors and when I try connecting 30 & 87 as suggested and engine is cranking over trying to start, but not starting up. Immoblizer symbol is still flashing on dash too.

[FuriousFord]

Problem is I'm out bush and the closest Ford dealership is 120kms away said they cant fix it until mid-April as they are booked out until then. I only got the car registered on Wednesday and the immobilizer went on Thursday. I spent the last 2 weeks flat out getting the ute up to roadworthy to get it registered on Wednesday and was happy as Larry when I did and now the ute is useless not starting due the immobilizer issue. It's a decent ute in immaculate condition, but now useless and I'm stranded due to location and finances. And ma dog thinks I'm going somewhere everytime I have a go at trying to sort the problem out and jumps in the back, but is in utter confusion when I give up and walk away.

[lumen8]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

Nah still a no goer. Turned key to on position and fuel pump feeds fuel to injectors and when I try connecting 30 & 87 as suggested and engine is cranking over trying to start, but not starting up. Immoblizer symbol is still flashing on dash too.

ok bummer, that actually worked for me once, and I didnt have an issue again.

Looks like you might have to do it the hard way as posted above.

Id probably try get a remote fob first and program it to the car and lock and unlock the car with that and try the starter relay thing one more time, because when it worked for me I did lock and unlock the car with the remove before doing that.

By the way have you touched the instrument cluster? sometimes these cars wont fire if the cluster plugs arent connecting right, might pay to pop it out and push the cluster connectors and then push the wires into the connector towards the cluster, literally grab the wiring loom where its going into the cluster connector and push on it into the connector sometimes the wires pull out a bit in the connector and dont connect with the cluster pins properly... can result in no start, ive had this occur and ive read others have also.

[aussiblue]

Looks like you will need to do a parameter rest per section 15-8-32 http://fordforums.com.au/wsmpub/augx/Part%2015-8.html and then repair the key fob. You have probably just triggered the immobilizer but even if it turns out to be a faulty BEM (Body Electronic Module) and you replace it you'll also need to do a parameter reset. You can do it yourself with a Laptop and a full version of Forscan for Windows https://forscan.org/download.html and either and EL327 with a Ford switch (e.g https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Forscan-...frcectupt=true) or Forscan and one of these. There are versions of Forscan and ELM327's that work with various smartphones and WiFi or Bluetooth but they can be slow and have unreliable Comms so I always recommend using Windows Laptop and a USB link. Also get a second key and FOB from Mr Minute https://misterminit.co/find-nearest-store/ ; if there not one local contact them one and they will sell you one online that you can pair with Forscan one you have fixed the issue. With just one key you will have ongoing Smartshield issues.

Also see this thread: https://fordforums.com.au/showthread...arameter+reset and https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic....r+Reset#p13221

If you want your own copy of the factory workshop manual, you can always download the complete Ford Factory Workshop Manual as PDF's for the relevant vehicle from the Ford website at: https://www.motorcraftservice.com At just US$21.95 for a 72 hour subscription it's good value and you 72 hours will give more than sufficient tome to download several full factory workshop manuals. They also have sections in these workshop manuals or supplements for the dual fuel and dedicated factory LPG cars and supplements for Utes. Just note:

a) each page is barcoded with an ID so sharing, posting on the net etc unless you want an expensive losing argument with Ford's copyright lawyers; and
b) If sections are missing in the numbering sequence it usually means those sections (often things like the jacking and lift points section) are unchanged from the prior model and you need to download those sections from the previous model(s).
c) The circuit diagrams can be a bit distorted and need to be enlarged on a suitable printer or copier.

[aussiblue]

Also it may be worth checking inside the steering column harness for any evidence that an aftermarket alarm was ever (or is still) spliced into the ignition and Smartlock wires as the typically were. These create three issues (even if the alarm module is removed):

a) the solder joints were these wires were become dry joints where the wires a soldered together;
b) they solder can loose their insulation tape and short on the metal column/
c) they wire between the Smartlock and the body control module/BEM carry excess current when the alarm module is fitted and the multi core wires burnt out (look for parts of wire where the insulation appears discolored or melted or seems thinner in parts and check for resistance between where the the plug into the body control module and the ignition lock (should all be near zero ohms).

Also check that the link that replace the auto trans inhibitor switch wiring on the manual trans mission has not be replaced and/or joined to an immobiliser module.

Similarly, check for any evidence at the PCM/ECU that an aftermarket is or was spliced in there (usually to the wires between the PCM/ECU and BEM) that can have the same or similar issues.

[aussiblue]

Note you may even need two keyfobs to do a parameter reset; I 've never tried it with just one key fob. Also check you have not simply dislodged a plug from the BEM, PCM or TILDA/Ignition Lock in the steering column.

[aussiblue]

Oops I missed a link where I said "or Forscan and one of these" sorry the link is: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Obdlink-...frcectupt=true

[aussiblue]

Rockhampton looks like your nearest Mr Minute (2 stores) and one of them may be able to send you a new fob by express mail or similar..but until you do a parameter reset and/or repair it that won't do much and even then you will need to eventually get it cut to match the other key if you want a full working spare. I do feel for you and your dog.

[aussiblue]

There are Smartshiedl bypass systems available (e.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Delete-S...frcectupt=true and https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Fal...frcectupt=true ) but in most states it is illegal to sell or register a car without an Government approved immobiliser system and fitting one may mean it fails any future roadworthy inspection. More importantly it would also may it easy prey to thieves and void any insurance claim if it was eventually stolen. But perhaps a Smartshield bypass and a aftermarket club steering lock might be a temporary solution while you sort it. The ebay listing for the second one also notes "Note:- will NOT work on SmartShield equipped AU1, AU2, AU3, BA, BF, FG or Territory vehicles" and the other one notes "You will be required to send your ECU to our Office for Programming". So not a quick temporary solution either.

[aussiblue]

Also pull each fuse including any fusible links and check them for individually continuity with a multitmeter or fuse checker (e.g. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...PO3953179.html) to ensure you didn't blow one while checking them. Especially the BEM fuse see http://fordforums.com.au/wsmpub/augx/Part%2015-2.html

[FuriousFord]

Cheers aussiblue for all the helpful advice, info and links. Especially the fuse diagram as I couldn't get a hold of one without paying for it. I've check and rechecked interior fuses and all seem to be okay, especially the BEM fuse. I only have a test light, as I have no multi-meter or fuse checker. The BEM is blue. Can't get to the ute atm due to the mozzies being ferocious after all this rain, so going to do some more research of the info and links you've already provided tonight and have look at the ute again first thing in the morning. I'm no auto-sparky either, so all this technical electrical info is a bit over my head. To be honest, I'm only a basic bush mechanic with a passion for performing hands on mechanical work and mechanical aptitude to suite. I also have a 1999 AUI ute that I used to part out for the AUII, but that also has an immobilizer problem which why I got it for next to nothing. And yes it only came with one key too. I think the issue with it is the key barrel is broken causing the immobilizer problem. It's only a six 4.0Ltr.

[aussiblue]

If it is a faulty BEM you are probably going find it hard to find a wrecked AU ute in Duaringa to salvage one from. The AU ute ones even seem rare on ebay. Do you know what colour the existing BCM case is; they are normally colour coded to the model application?

In any event, see http://www.fordmods.com/ford-technic...martsheild-d35 http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=26 though for some background and open up your existing BEM and check for dry joints on the relays.

Looking at Duaringa in Google Earth streetview, while I sadly didn't see any wrecked AU utes in the Duaringa Breakdown and recovery yard, I do see a RACQ labelled ute parked there so perhaps and an option is to join the RACQ and call them in to see if they can get you going.

I also saw bumper to bumper traffic in Durainga in Google Earth street view; who would have thought.....or perhaps they had all just recently been queued up on the highway behind the Google Earth camera car waiting to get past.

[aussiblue]

Is it a six cylinder or V8 Ute. Is either of these the right colour and BEM code number ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FAL...kAAOSw~o5aVAeC or this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FAL...kAAOSwXtNaVAoQ Perhaps, although I would be surprised, the AU's aren't as fussy as other models about the type of BEM as all these ebay adverts for BEMs imply they fit the sedan, wagon and ute.

[foxtrot3]

Hi. If the interior light is not working check fuse 11 (crt lamps) and while your there fuse 10.(BEM battery) and fuse 1 (cluster ign), this is from the fuse diag on the forums ( http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...?articleid=498 ) but it differs from the fuse descriptions in the wiring diagrams for the BEM wiring. Might pay to grab a test light to check fuses in future instead of swapping a problem from one circuit to another. Cheers MD

[aussiblue]

The wiring diagrams for the AU ute are here http://fordforums.com.au/wsm/wire/aubx/Part%2024-5.html section 24-5-54

Looks like it may be fused through both the courtesy light and Instrument cluster/Ignition fuses so check fuse 1 and fuse 11.

Also check relay 3, the EEC/PCM relay, in the engine compartment fuse box.

[aussiblue]

Did you actually swap fuses and relays while originally testing; or did you just pull and check each one? What did you actually do? To me, it sound like the Smartshield as seen what it has interpreted as an attempt to hotwire the ignition and immobilised the ute.

Note also the Smartshield system can be confused by stray RF signals and things like nearby mains transformers, power generators, battery chargers and radio transceivers can stop it working as can metallic window tint (blocks the signal from the fob). Has anything electronic (sat nav, GPS, mobile phone, sat radio etc) that could be interfering with the fob signal been put inside the cab or on the key ring of the fob and is there anything nearby that could be generating RF interference. If the utes in your shed turn everything else in the shed off. I have a Repco Jump Starter that cause these sort of issue while it is charging (it also sets off my shed and car alarms).

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Did you actually swap fuses and relays while originally testing; or did you just pull and check each one? What did you actually do? To me, it sound like the Smartshield as seen what it has interpreted as an attempt to hotwire the ignition and immobilised the ute.

Note also the Smartshield system can be confused by strong RF signals and things like nearby mains transformers, power generators and radio transceivers can stop it working as can metallic window tint. Has anything electronic (sat nav, mobile phone, sat radio etc) that could be interfering with the fob signal been put inside the cab or on the key ring of the fob?

Only visually checked each fuse, but I did notice that when I tried pulling the demister relay under dash the demister light flashed on the dash lighting. I did have my mobile in the ute with data on whilst trying to sort the issue. I also had my Ford Escape key and remote on the keyring, but not sure if that may have trigger the fault.

[aussiblue]

Only visually checked each fuse, but I did notice that when I tried pulling the demister relay under dash the demister light flashed on the dash lighting. I did have my mobile in the ute with data on whilst trying to sort the issue.

OK check the demister fuse thoroughly and remove the mobile phone from proximity and try again.

[aussiblue]

Note the rear heater demister switch is used for key fob training per 15-8-4 and 15-8-14 of the workshop manual so it may well be related. Lets hope you didn't accidentally initiate key fob training as this will erase the existing key fob's code and without a second working key you will need a parameter reset and probably a new second key.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Note the rear heater demister switch is used for key fob training per 15-9-14 of the workshop manual so it may well be related. Lets hope you didn't accidentally initiate key fob training.

Hi. The remote key fob only controls the central locking (& boot/tailgate release on sedans/wagons). The only immobiliser function is with the TILA chip in the key and the key reader around the ignition barrel on the series 2 & 3. series 1 had the disc in the back of the ignition switch to make sure that the correct key was used in the barrel to turn on the ignition like the EF and EL falcons. Cheers MD

[11ford11]

Remote does door locks not immobiliser keys do smart shield
Check interior light fuse No.11 marked as crt light or try just replacing
Fuse diagram and more can be found in tech resources above under wiring diagrams /au falcon...


........seems I type too slow sometimes.........

Refer foxtrot3

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by 11ford11

Remote does door locks not immobiliser keys do smart shield
Check interior light fuse No.11 marked as crt light or try just replacing
Fuse diagram and more can be found in tech resources above under wiring diagrams /au falcon...


........seems I type too slow sometimes.........

Refer foxtrot3

Interior light still wasn't working, so I replaced light bulb and also replaced 15amp fuse. Interior light still not working after replacing both.

[aussiblue]

Hi. The remote key fob only controls the central locking (& boot/tailgate release on sedans/wagons). The only immobiliser function is with the TILA chip in the key and the key reader around the ignition barrel on the series 2 & 3. series 1 had the disc in the back of the ignition switch to make sure that the correct key was used in the barrel to turn on the ignition like the EF and EL falcons. Cheers MD

Correct, I had forgotten, but not having remote lock-unlock of the utes even when you only have two doors is still a nuisance. One other remote possibility is the fob has simply died. While section 15-8-27 under transponder key notes

The encoded key is larger than a traditional key, does not require batteries and should last the life of the vehicle

Ford might argue that it is now well past what they consider the life of the AU. New transponder keys are cheap enough but need to be cut and paired https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2xTransp...cAAOSw6SNdqhCe to BEM.