Pre-purchase check (RACV or mechanic) - worth it?

Keladry · 16-12-2012, 11:00 AM

I'm buying a 2003 Fairmont for my first car, done 209,000 kms, had an LPG system installed in 2007 from LPGas Lilydale (actually I forgot to ask/not sure how to tell from looking so will check the documentation but I assume it's a mixer type). Visually it looks good - paintwork all seems smooth, I couldn't find any rust, interior is clean, electronics all work and I admit I don't know much about looking under hoods but the oil was clean. Tyres (including the spare) seemed ok but again I'm not sure how to check exactly how much tread there should be.

When I test drove it, it felt good - no shuddering when braking (gently or harder), tried turning with steering wheel as far as it would turn and the steering seemed tight and responsive. It sounded smooth when idling at the lights. I didn't notice any weird gear changes.

The owner warned me that he once had the engine stall when switching over to gas when rolling down a hill, and that the lpg mechanic advised him to only switch over going downhill if he was accelerating. When I tried switching a couple of times there was a slight noticeable 'something' on the change but otherwise the car did not act differently.

The owner has a nearly complete service history (a couple missing) from Etheridge Ford and a separate service history for the LPG (and is getting this serviced before I buy it). He is also getting a RWC.

Should I get the RACV or an independent mechanic to check the car before handing over my money ($6500)? Is it worth it, seeing as there's a good service history and they only examine parts visually? I accept that having done over 200,000 there are going to be parts that need replacing soon/eventually but can a mechanic tell this just by looking? I've heard about problems with the transmission in the BAs and will get an external cooler installed once I buy it anyway.

Itsme · 16-12-2012, 11:06 AM

No harm in having RACV check for peace of mind, they will know how to check the condition of the car better than you.

Dragoneletra · 16-12-2012, 11:18 AM

You should, if it's your first car and you don't want the trouble of repairing bits and pieces.

zilo · 17-12-2012, 01:40 AM

209,000 k's and on gas?

keep looking mate...the good miles have already flown by on that car.

Expect problems soonish.

LTDHO · 18-12-2012, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ugg

209,000 k's and on gas?

keep looking mate...the good miles have already flown by on that car.

Expect problems soonish.

I agree.

If you have any knowledge of car mechanics, then don't waste your time with an RACV inspection.
If you don't, then it is a good idea.

The inspections aren't very high tech and by the sounds of it, you already do it all. Maybe a 'compression test' is all that you miss.

Ford_The_Win · 18-12-2012, 09:15 AM

Don't buy that car, buy something with less kays on the clock. You'll regret it, a BA will be a basket case with that much mileage. They aren't exactly one of Ford's best models. Buy something else.

mike_nofx · 21-12-2012, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ugg

209,000 k's and on gas?

keep looking mate...the good miles have already flown by on that car.

Expect problems soonish.

Exactly, why waste your time on something that may only have another 300k left in it.

(Pending mechanical inspection checks out)

Dusty1 · 17-12-2012, 03:26 PM

When I got my 205 GTi, I recall there was a standard check and then a more in depth one where the RACV guy did compression tests and some other stuff.

If I was to buy second hand that's what I'd get. When I got the XR6, the RACV report was pretty general, good condition for its age, etc. As a 2010 car probably was, but it didn't help me much. But then again nothing has gone wrong.

1TUFFUTE · 17-12-2012, 07:06 PM

exactly...its a major peace of mind thing. You have to get the extensive check though...then you will get any crash history and bassically a very good rundown on the condition of the car and what may or may not be ready to fail. I would also agree that if you have a GOOD mechanic...getting them to check it for you is a no brainer and maybe cheaper. Mine does it for free as i give him our servicing and upgrades and so on.

Also over 200ks is alot .... so checking is smart.

mik · 17-12-2012, 07:31 PM

it might still drive well , but if there`s oil leaks you can`t see, they can cost buks to repair, cooling system problems you can`t see, it might save you a few buks in the long run, if there are issues you can bargain him down.

Keladry · 17-12-2012, 09:21 PM

Thanks for the replies, I've decided to get it checked. Seeing as it's my first car I don't have a regular mechanic yet so will probably go with the RACV extensive check. Unless someone can recommend a mechanic near Ringwood?

zilo · 17-12-2012, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keladry

Thanks for the replies, I've decided to get it checked. Seeing as it's my first car I don't have a regular mechanic yet so will probably go with the RACV extensive check. Unless someone can recommend a mechanic near Ringwood?

take it to a Ford dealer?

you would expect they would know more than RACV....

Agile · 18-12-2012, 07:21 AM

Would highly recommend a RACV check. VERY comprehensive check that will provide a complete list of everything wrong with the car. You will probobly not buy the car afterwards because they are so picky that they car, unless like brand new, will have numerous faults. Speak from experience.

**FTE-063** · 18-12-2012, 08:39 PM

what is your price range?? that way people on this forum will give a guide in what to buy, better car with lower k's better car overall or maybe a bf

**FTE-063** · 18-12-2012, 08:43 PM

what is your price range?? that way people on this forum can help you find a better car with lower k's maybe a bf or better car overall
SORRY DOUBLE POST

Keladry · 19-12-2012, 08:31 AM

My price range is $7000 but I want something that's cheap on fuel because I have some savings I can put aside for repairs but once I go back to uni I don't earn much and don't want to have to use savings every week just to pay for petrol. I could get a smaller car but it has to have good safety which rules out most in my price range.

Are the BAs really that bad that you would recommend not to get it because of the kms even if there aren't any major problems found?

RedHotGT · 19-12-2012, 04:03 PM

If it was me - I'd be considering this one. $5000 - and has 59,000km

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...sort=~Odometer

Sure its an EL - but it's under your budget, low kays, very well kept, and gives you options to 'customise' it within your taste...

Or perhaps something like this:$7000 - has 101,000km

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...sort=~Odometer

And always get a second opinion - because you can guarantee you'll miss something.

irish2 · 19-12-2012, 04:54 PM

On the question of the motor the thing will run forever if properly serviced. Gas is much nicer to engines too as it leaves no sooty deposits in the oil, unlike petrol.

It will stall when switching to gas with the throttle closed (i.e. coasting down a hill) as it will flood the cylinder with greater than 9% gas by volume, and subsequently be outside its' limit of flammability.

For longevity an AU is probably a better proposition. Be wary of old cars with extremely low kilometers as they are often just run cold and never do a full heat cycle, which removes contaminants in the engine.

Keladry · 20-12-2012, 06:31 PM

I don't want older than a BA because I want the safety features. Thanks for linking them though.

I did take the car to a garage who looked it over and did a compression test. The only mechanical things they found were some kind of gel-like substance in the coolant so they recommended flushing it, and slight brake shudder (I didn't even notice it when I drove it) which I know is a common problem. So I'm going to go ahead and buy it.

zilo · 20-12-2012, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keladry

I don't want older than a BA because I want the safety features. Thanks for linking them though.

I did take the car to a garage who looked it over and did a compression test. The only mechanical things they found were some kind of gel-like substance in the coolant so they recommended flushing it, and slight brake shudder (I didn't even notice it when I drove it) which I know is a common problem. So I'm going to go ahead and buy it.

The gel like substance is probably "just" a head gasket leak.
Was it creamy looking?
The shudder is probably just warped discs, just needs all new ones and probably new pads and a full bleed.

Ford_The_Win · 21-12-2012, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keladry

I don't want older than a BA because I want the safety features. Thanks for linking them though.

I did take the car to a garage who looked it over and did a compression test. The only mechanical things they found were some kind of gel-like substance in the coolant so they recommended flushing it, and slight brake shudder (I didn't even notice it when I drove it) which I know is a common problem. So I'm going to go ahead and buy it.

Yeah, the gel is probably some kind of stop leak!

Dude there are plenty of nice BA's still getting around. This one sounds like a donkey. Wait until a better one comes along.

**MercurySilver** · 21-12-2012, 01:49 AM

i wouldnt buy another BA