LS Focus Brakes

kjau99 · 19-05-2008, 10:55 AM

Hi everyone, I took my 2006 LS Focus in last week for its 30,000km service (only done 25,000km but hit 12 months since last service) and got told that my front rotors only have 5,000km left on them. I've heard all the stories about the Focus and brakes (wish I heard them before I bought the car) but have to live with my choice!

I'm in Melbourne and was hoping somebody who's had a good experience (somewhere other than a Ford dealer) in getting their brakes fixed on their Focus could suggest a place?

Tj-zetec · 19-05-2008, 12:22 PM

from most of what i've heard, the problem is with the genuine rotors. Aside from the fact a dealer will charge you an arm and a leg for them they don't last too well.

Most guys on here will recommend that you replace them with aftermarket rotors like DBA or RDA rotors.
RDA will generally be cheaper than DBA and as far as know there's no quality difference.

I used the slotted rotors over the standard solid for a bit of extra stopping power. I'm pretty sure the front of my brain has bruises from hard stops with these brakes.
I can't quite remember what it cost me exactly but i think the rotors were around $200 a pair (somebody correct me if i'm wrong) and i get the EBC Greenstuff pads too which were pricey but well worth it.

before you dive into replacing them, it would be worth while checking the thickness of your rotors yourself and look up the minimum thickness which should be stated in the owners manual, If not someone on here is bound to know.

BlackLS · 19-05-2008, 06:34 PM

I ran my stock LS rotors till 50,000kms, although I have manual. They were 1.5mm under minimum legal thickness when I pulled them off.

I have upgraded the rotors to DBA Street Slotted and haven't looked back. I've done almost 80,000kms on the new rotors and they look better than the stock rotors at 20,000kms. Better braking and better wear than the standard. They are possibly also cheaper than the stock rotors.

Also when ordering brake pads, they are exactly the same as Mazda3, so if you are given the thumbs down when asking for pads on your LS/LT, get them to check if they have Mazda3 pads. Same goes for Air filter and oil filters. Rotors are different due to different stud pattern.

kjau99 · 20-05-2008, 09:29 PM

Thanks guys. I don't know much about cars when it comes to mechanics so unfortunately somebody will be making money out of me! But I'd prefer it not to be Ford because they'll more than likely take the most in return for the worse product.

20focus05 · 21-05-2008, 10:05 PM

I found the rotors wearing to quick.
Changed to slotted DBA's all round
That was at about 40k
changed rear pads then too
Fronts are still original 45% left done 75k
At dealerships the mechanics dont get the problem solving skills mechanics get in a generic mechanical workshop, unless you get one of the guys that done his apprenticeship outside the dealership system. sorry any that work at dealerships but I have talked to many appentices and mechanics in dealerships and they feel they dont get real world experience, and they dont get the variety of diagnosing.

neural revolt · 28-05-2008, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20focus05

I found the rotors wearing to quick.
Changed to slotted DBA's all round
That was at about 40k
changed rear pads then too
Fronts are still original 45% left done 75k
At dealerships the mechanics dont get the problem solving skills mechanics get in a generic mechanical workshop, unless you get one of the guys that done his apprenticeship outside the dealership system. sorry any that work at dealerships but I have talked to many appentices and mechanics in dealerships and they feel they dont get real world experience, and they dont get the variety of diagnosing.

I got caught with this way; 30K service report said all brakes OK, but then at ~43K, load groaning noises under heavy braking (and it wasn't just me making all the noise when I realised what was happening!).
In we go for an early 45K service and report on brakes says both front rotors undersized and need replacing.
$560 later and I'm wondering if 15K is too long between services wrt the brakes. I mean, I've owned an AU Fairlane, BA Fairmont, much heavier cars that went well past 50K on their brakes.
Is it inferior materials used in the Focus? Anyway I've noted the numerous recommendations for slotted DBA rotors and will be doing my own repairs next time.
Ford charged $192 each for the genuine marshmallow grade rotors so ~$200 for decent rotors ain't too bad.
NR

Tj-zetec · 30-05-2008, 10:20 PM

After market is THE way to go. The ford rotors are rubbish, can't give you an explanation as to why tho.

BrisVegas · 06-01-2009, 05:25 PM

Coming up on 55,000km on original tyres and brakes....

I'm wanting to replace/upgrade my brakes in the near future to either DBA or RDA slotted rotors and EBC greenstuff pads as this combination seems to get great reviews.

Can anyone recommend a reputable place in Brisbane to get this work done that wont rip me off...

I currently get my car serviced at Ultra Tune Wacol, not sure if this is something that I should pursue through them?? I will also be getting 4 new tyres soon, most likey Bridgestone Adrenalins thru Kmart Tyre & Auto at Redbank.

Thanks in advance.

819_FLY · 06-01-2009, 05:37 PM

If the rotors are the same outside diamater why not having a crack at it yourself. Assuming the Calipers are just like any other brake caliper there should be 2 bolts holding the caliper to the strut assembly, simply when you're car is up on a jack stand with a wheel removed, undo those two bolts the caliper assembly should be able to slide outwards from the rotor, next, suck some of the brake fluid out of the resevoir and then push the old pads outwards to push the pistons back into the caliper so the new pads can fit onto the rotor, slide to old rotor off (assuming once again it isnt bolted directly to the hub) and slide the new rotor on, fit the new pads to the caliper and slide the caliper back into its mounted position with a pad on each side of the rotor (for obvious reasons) and then tighten the two bolts up to specified torque (or FT if Torque Wrench is not available). Refit Wheel and lower the car and proceed to drive the car according to bedding in requirements and top up the fluid is required.

Should take about 1/2 hour each side realisticly without bleeding or getting brake fluid all over yourself. Just make sure to ziptie the caliper when its hangin to avoid stretching the flexible hoses or bending the hard tubing so it doesn't kink.

Plus you get your hands dirty and gain valuable knowledge about your own car.

Tj-zetec · 06-01-2009, 06:43 PM

i had a bit of trouble getting the back calipers off but thats because i'm a dope and un-did the wrong two bolts. after about an hour and a half of swearing and throwing tools i realised what i had done.

Was served humble pie with a side of brake dust.

Oh, and it might be a good idea to invest in some hi-temp thread lock for when you put the bolts back in. You should be able to get it from the same place that you get your rotors. It's just an extra safe guard to make sure that the bolts don't come undone.
Couldn't tell you how much it's worth tho, i flogged it off my brother in law. hehe.

BlackLS · 06-01-2009, 06:48 PM

Rear calipers are screwed back in, whereas the front you use a caliper separator.

I got my DBA slotted from Bursons. A lot cheaper than from Repco.