Common Problems with the AU??

[mcfly94]

Originally Posted by Silver'

I'm not 100% sure. Certainly all 220kw autos did. You can do a vin lookup on the Ford Etis system and it will mention heavy duty cooling or somesuch in the options list if it was on from factory.

185kw definitely didnt, i think 200kw may have.

[Silver']

Ignore previous mention of Etis, it doesn't show it. My memory must be giving out in my old age...

http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do#

[xyfalcon383]

Originally Posted by mcfly94

185kw definitely didnt, i think 200kw may have.

I noticed it was a option in the technical section. Seems like a strange option to have, You would think it would be standard etc

[xyfalcon383]

Originally Posted by Silver'

I'm not 100% sure. Certainly all 220kw autos did. You can do a vin lookup on the Ford Etis system and it will mention heavy duty cooling or somesuch in the options list if it was on from factory.

Rang Ford to see the options my car has, Was told that the High output cooling was a option and not all 220 cars had it. But nearly everyone opted for the option....

[TRAU BLAU]

My starter problems I mentioned a month ago turned out to be the battery.It completely discharged & I had to get a new(higher crank)battery.The failed one(century)was only 3 years old,maintenance free & showed the green circle which meant stuff-all as far as I'm concerned.

[22heritage22]

G day all, i just resolved an issue i had with heavy fuel usage ,on my vct au2 xr6 ,Two mechanics had said there were no codes ,which i think maybe the battery terminals weren't supplying enough current to get em working?. i had done all the usual stuff gaskets etc and found that ford have different plugs for vct and non vct 4.0l engines.changed plugs and the issue went away.back from 380 ks a tank to around 570 klm,s a tank or so it states on the DTE on dash.also check the battery leads / terminals . i filed mine like new and it also gave extra klm,s.cheers fords also stated they have had issues with platinum plugs and the vct xr6 au2,s.I hope this helps someone as it took me a while to figure out.cheers. JACK

[Maka]

Hi all, i changed out my faulty thermostat the other day, it was taking way too long to get to temp. Just replaced it with a tt 195 (91c) & now my vct is running great again. On short stop stuff it pays to have a stock thermostat installed imo, especially on a vct lol!!!

cheer's, Maka

[xr8cam]

My AUII XR8 98,000kms. Replaced all rotors as they were warped. two new bearings on the front and 4 new tyres because it has done 400kms in 6 years so tyres were out of round and bearings were stuffed.The cruise control buttons work when they want-I replaced all the buttons.The CD changer was also stuffed-quoted $200 repair. I have put a single CD factory unit in untill I make up my mind. The purge solenoid makes its 'tick tick' noise but it is very quiet compared to some reports. I still haven't been able to locate a new one so not sure if it's a instant fix. Rear boot gas strut area was looking dodgy, cleaned up surface rust, thankfully that's all there was and replaced the struts. Main door roof rubber seal that runs from back door across roof to bonnet-remove and wash thoroughly, let dry and spray with suitable protective before replacing. Where bare metal seams are exposed, clean channel out with warm soapy water taking care not too drip inside car. I hold a towel under where i am working with one hand and clean with the other. let dry well. I use a big plastic syringe from the chemist, the kind you mix babys medicine up in, I put rust convertor in that so i can be really accurate when applying to small or difficult spots. Also, loosen off any bolts that have tell tale signs around them, light clean, rust convertor or fish oil etc. I have also just bought a electronic rust inhibitor with 6 points that fix to the car. I will let you know in 10 years if it has been a good investment! I did as much research as I could and there is definitely something to be said for the kits. If it is anygood or not, time will tell. Anything to keep my pride n joy looking as good as she can.

[TRAU BLAU]

Does anyone know if it's possible change the shift mode on the BTR boxes if the AU has got the econ button.Can you still do the switch on in 3rd gear move to reverse etc to get a smoother change or are you stuck with econ or no econ shift pattern only?

[Markan]

Hi everyone out there, can somone please tell me or if had same problem my radiator seems to leak on the bottom right hand side facing infornt when I fill the plastic coolant bottle to full and come out the next day about 300 ml is on the ground and if I leave it not fill it up to full no problem won't leak only when I fill the plastic coolant bottle to full or 3 /4 it happens the needle is in the same position under half doesn't go into hot don't understand if I leave it on low coolant won't leak tryed yesterday filled it up with coolant drove for an hour no leaks only when I go next day I can see green on the plastic or ground and doesn't leak all the way as there is coolant still in the plastic bottle. It's realy got me can feel plastic grommet rite on the bottom corner don't know if pressure but why would it leave still coolant in the bottle if there was a hole. Much appreciated au series 3 xr6vct ��

[Maka]

Hi Markan, how old is the radiator cap? Replace it with new then check if its still doing it, good luck!

cheers, Maka

[Silver']

Stops leaking when warm due to expansion, eventually stops leaking when cold due to the system pulling down into a (very slight) vacuum.
Try starting it from cold and running it for 60 seconds.
Switch it off and remove your fans (1 plug and 2 bolts), and you’ll likely see it leaking.

[Markan]

Originally Posted by Maka

Hi Markan, how old is the radiator cap? Replace it with new then check if its still doing it, good luck!

cheers, Maka

the radiator cap looks new no gunk little bit tight the spring, I'll give it a try thanks maka realy apreceate it

Originally Posted by xahh

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I'm sure that you can get all the help and information that you need here. It is a wealth of experience and knowledge.

Probably best to re-post your question in the relevant AU section as a new thread, that way you attract the attention of many other AU owners and get the best results. Quite often, not all members read the new member introduction posts.

[Markan]

[QUOTE=Maka;6022181]Hi Markan, how old is the radiator cap? Replace it with new then check if its still doing it, good luck!

cheers, Maka yeah took to brake radiator joint goes hole on side of radiator nxt thing puts new radiator hoses 400 buks but at start he could patch it up 150 didn't even let me know just put it in anyway all good now just now got new problem with the caliper not sure everytime tyre goes round to the caliper and this noice like when the old days with the push bikes put a playing card in the spoke same noice new rotors and pads I'm thinking somthing is stuck in the caliper or its not opening all the way going to pull caliper off give good clean hope that fixes it

[Maka]

Hi Markan, front or back brake noise? Imo jack the rear wheels up first & check its not the handbrake shoes binding by spinning a rear wheel & feeling if the wheel is grabbing when you hear the noise.

Sometimes a rear shoe pops out of its clip & the symptoms may sound like it. In the front calipers, a piston can get stuck or the caliper sliders may need greasing with brake grease. Either option, front brakes on-off imo with these symptoms.

Good luck with the noise & let us know how things went mate.

Ps, naughty mechanic

cheers, Maka

[XC50077]

Check your tyres for stones caught in the tread or maybe a nail or screw.Last week I had a similar noise and found a short teckscrew in rear left tyre.cheers

[TRAU BLAU]

Originally Posted by XC50077

Check your tyres for stones caught in the tread or maybe a nail or screw.Last week I had a similar noise and found a short teckscrew in rear left tyre.cheers

In the last 5 years I've had 2 flat tyres both in the rear-left wheel.The 1st one was a piece of wire which shredded the inside of the tyre wall & the 2nd was a roofing screw.Still better to have the rear flat than the front eh?!

[ebv8]

problems with my 20 year old AU1 futura

problem: lose wheel centre caps, lost one on a dirt road, tabs break off
solution: hot glue the thing in place

problem: rear brake noise, i assume its the brake caliper slides as the car was sitting for years
solution:remomve entire diff and replace it with an XR6 3.45 LSD and territory brakes

problem: front brakes overheat too quick
solution 1: remove plastic dust shields from stock 15in alloys
solution 2: buy an AU2 XR6 and swap over the front twin piston brakes (fit under stock 15in alloys)
solution 3: fit FG XR6t from brakes (now have to fit 17in S1 tickford alloys)

thats all the issues i have had but its only got 100,000km on it so i'm sure there will be more own the track

[rangerdanger15]

We got our AU (I think series 2?) or maybe the first "update". It has front power windows, trim seems different, black scuff plates for some reason and a different grille. Only had 86,000Ks on it when i bought it for $1500. Bloody nice car, but despite the low K's (just over 100K now) has needed some work, naturally. Body wise was great until some idiot side swiped me at the shops and took off

New manifold gasket, ball joints, exhaust, all struts are shot (busted my face a few months ago) brake pedal switch, driver seatbelt. I think the steering rack is shot too, according to the tyre bloke who said he wouldnt be able to do a decent wheel alignment until it got replaced, so i am just delaying that one for a bit...

The boot (RHS) strut ball thing is rusted bad, I don't know how I will remove the thing.

I was thinking of selling it for something newer, but I really like it. It is only the second car, so does not do too many K's.

[Cav]

Is this thread a scam to belittle the mighty AU Falcon?

I bet those BA boys are behind this.

I may start a new thread with this question.

Common problems with BA?

Answer: The dumb ugly owners.

[Ol’dad]

I have a 2000 Fairmont.
The digital cluster showing the A/C temp, inside or outside air and the odometer works but there is not bright. Unless I shine a torch light on these displays I can’t see them.
Any suggestions on how to increase the brightness?

[hellrc5]

Originally Posted by Ol’dad

I have a 2000 Fairmont.

The digital cluster showing the A/C temp, inside or outside air and the odometer works but there is not bright. Unless I shine a torch light on these displays I can’t see them.

Any suggestions on how to increase the brightness?

i d guess those globes responsible for the background illumination of your cluster and AC panel are gone and need replacing

Sent from my SM-N935F using Tapatalk

[Ol’dad]

Originally Posted by hellrc5

i d guess those globes responsible for the background illumination of your cluster and AC panel are gone and need replacing

Sent from my SM-N935F using Tapatalk

Do you know if it’s a reasonably easy job to change them?

[aussiblue]

Common problem? A face that only Cav and their mother (the designer) could love.

[roddy1960]

Originally Posted by rangerdanger15

We got our AU (I think series 2?) or maybe the first "update". It has front power windows, trim seems different, black scuff plates for some reason and a different grille. Only had 86,000Ks on it when i bought it for $1500. Bloody nice car, but despite the low K's (just over 100K now) has needed some work, naturally. Body wise was great until some idiot side swiped me at the shops and took off

New manifold gasket, ball joints, exhaust, all struts are shot (busted my face a few months ago) brake pedal switch, driver seatbelt. I think the steering rack is shot too, according to the tyre bloke who said he wouldnt be able to do a decent wheel alignment until it got replaced, so i am just delaying that one for a bit...

The boot (RHS) strut ball thing is rusted bad, I don't know how I will remove the thing.

I was thinking of selling it for something newer, but I really like it. It is only the second car, so does not do too many K's.

Re the bootlid strut ball .. Don't bother trying to get the old one out ..Bloody near impossible . Cut it off ..Drill a new hole near as possible ..Get on EBAY and spend a few bucks from memory and buy two new 8mm pivot/balls . There are two sizes in regard to thread and either will do I got the thicker one . Drill the holes in the boot lid inner skin that the originals are located in slightly bigger than the thread . Buy a couple of nuts to suit the thread and with a bit of mucking around you can get the nut on and tighten as there is a tight but accessible gap to get into . I did mine over a year ago that way .

Took me an hour or two but it works fine . I also put two new struts on . OEM pivot ball studs are no longer available so after market ones are all there is . They work just the same though . Cut the old ones off..not worth the trouble trying to unscrew the rusted ones out.

[Silver']

Originally Posted by Ol’dad

Do you know if it’s a reasonably easy job to change them?

Yes, it’s easy. Take the clock fascia off with a small plastic lever and the unit is held in with one screw. The fiddly part is taking off and refitting the tube for the cabin temp sensor.

Once you get the unit out, you can see the bulb holders in the bottom of their little wells. Unscrew and take the bulbs out of them, measure and go shopping to match the size. From memory they are 1.2watt bulbs.

[elegance5]

AU2 GHIA 2000 Tickford VCT 4 litre - oil leaks increasing ...
1. Behind power steering pump RH side of motor (supposedly to do with timing chain tensioner).
2. LH side of motor between head and block - approx location 2nd piston from front.
Long-existing oil leaks. Does not use huge amounts of oil but makes a mess. Have pursued this in the past with mechanics - seems it is in the "too hard" basket.
Have owned this car for 13 years, only done 220,000 km. Excellent order. Has had lots of money spent on it, want it up to scratch.
Any suggestions?

[Pratty04]

Hi all I have a 2000 au series 2 Fairmont
I’ve been having this issue for a while now where it will stutter with anything over 50% throttle. Orgininally I cleaned the o2 sensor with some contact cleaner and it cleared..but it came back so I replaced with a genuine Bosch o2 sensor thinking that was the issue but after 2 days it has come back again…does anyone have any clue what this could be

The next things I’m going to check are fuel pressure reg and coil pack as when I replaced the old o2 sensor it was as black as the ace of spades

In the last 1500kms it has had brand new fuel pump ,fuel filter, leads and plugs.

Thankyou

[PG2]

Originally Posted by Pratty04

Hi all I have a 2000 au series 2 Fairmont
I’ve been having this issue for a while now where it will stutter with anything over 50% throttle. Orgininally I cleaned the o2 sensor with some contact cleaner and it cleared..but it came back so I replaced with a genuine Bosch o2 sensor thinking that was the issue but after 2 days it has come back again…does anyone have any clue what this could be

The next things I’m going to check are fuel pressure reg and coil pack as when I replaced the old o2 sensor it was as black as the ace of spades

In the last 1500kms it has had brand new fuel pump ,fuel filter, leads and plugs.

Thankyou

The inlet manifold gasket is a very common problem with these cars and the issues that you are experiencing point to this may be the problem.

The second most common issue is the coil pack.

[Cav]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Common problem? A face that only Cav and their mother (the designer) could love.