Km's or age when buying used?

[jaydee]

Hey FF team, I'm in the market for a new car (used anyway).
I have done my research and have made my decision what I want for my needs.
So, looking at a petrol Mazda CX-5 and my question is, comparing apples with apples, is it better value (considering resale down the track) to buy lets say a 2013 with low kays or a 2015 with moderate to high kays.
I don't do many kays so won't be racking up the mileage.
I know when I'm buying used, kays and Kw are the first thing I look at.
What's others line of thought on this?

[Poetic Justice]

I think the condition of the car, service history and the length of time that you intend to keep the car are things that should come in to consideration for you.

For me I would also be considering whether the 2015 has any more features than the 2013 might too... but usually I would always go the car with the lower KMs predominantly.

[Citroënbender]

Chronological age, the caveat is any bonded/welded panel repairs (eg quarters, turret, pillars) possibly will reflect in minor niggles foreign to an un-repaired car.

Newer is cheaper to insure, usually.

[TheInterceptor]

Typically in my experience the high the km the more reliable the car will be. Cars with low kms are typically not driving and are in a workshop often or are left at home in favour for a reliable car when taken on road trips as its not trusted.
Higher km cars may also have a bunch of new parts fitted. But beware if its been run into the ground but I imagine youll be able to pickup on that.

But also depends on the car. A CX5 may probably just be a school run car and simply not driven far. Which also means its had a gutfull of cold engine driving. Gotta take the bad with the good I guess.

But in terms of resale? Most people froth over low km so naturally if it isn't trashed and dinged with paint fade and has low km that is what it worth more....

Oh and if its got a timing belt, make sure its been done and you don't get stuck with the high cost of getting it done!!

[stock1991]

You don't do many km's then a higher km later model is perfect, of course depending on condition

[Ben73]

Age.
My mate bought a 19 year old car with 50,000kms on it and it had quite a few things wrong with it.
A car at work was 3 years old with 555,000kms and it drove like new. Hardly had any issues.

[73 4V XB]

Hard to say really. 3 years ago I bought a 04 rodeo with 120 on it, a mate bought a 07 model, common rail, with similar K’s and it seized with in 2 months, blocked oil pick up.
Mostly comes down to how it’s been treated. I don’t think after sales matters much anymore. Most new cars are only made to last 10 years then scrap them.

[.:4:.]

100% check the maintenance records. I bought a 2 year old fairmont in 2010 and was sort of high kays for 2 years old at 72,000, but it had been over serviced and now 10 years later has 200k on it and is fine with only minor sitting for a few years issues. My brother has an 82 commodore with 107k on it but everything possible is rooted. And this stuff was rooted 20 years ago hence why it was put on stands. Anything with grease, oil, water needs to keep turning on occasion to stay lubricated. If the lubrication drains down, bad things happen. Only exeption is if people drain the lot to store a car. They stand a chance.

[Crazy Dazz]

Short answer is both.

Firstly, don't worry about resale, unless you really are planning to turn it over quickly. compared to what you are paying now, plus what you will spend over the life of your ownership, a $1k difference in future resale is immaterial.

Secondly, ignore all the "wives' tales" mythology. Obviously there are exceptions to every rule, but that's why they are called exceptions. A car with higher kms will on average be more worn that one with lesser. Yes it will vary with other factors such as the nature of those kms (highway vs city) but unless you personally know the history of the vehicle, you can only play the numbers. Naturally if you are comparing two similar high km cars, and one just had a rebuilt transmission, then that may be a plus. But again that presupposes you knowing the detailed R&M history of each.

If a car is only a few years old, then you need to consider the new-car warranty. A model with a few months still to run, but higher kms, is probably better than one with less k's but out of warranty.

But you also need to remember that such things are only a guestimate, in place of a detailed inspection. A high km car will probably have a more worn interior, but a basic inspection will give you a better idea. A test drive will give you a better idea of the drivetrain, etc.

Also, do your research and be aware on any particular issues that you want to avoid. We are currently considering Kugas, and so looking both pre and post the self-immolating models.

And yes, opinions about "wives' tales" notwithstanding, there can be a point at which older and simpler is better. eg If buying a 20yr diesel with 300kk+, the truck engine is definitely going to be a simpler fix than the "modern" EFI.

[Tassie f100]

I sometimes drive a council owned community transport Honda which will have somewhere between 80 and 100k when it is traded at around 2 year old. I,m sure it will be a much better used car buy than a shopping trolley with 25k at the same age.

[jaydee]

Thanks all, some relevant points there that I hadn't considered.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by Fiji

999 times out of a hundred the higher km car is no good.

you do realise that 999 doesn't fit into 100.

[jpd80]

Thing to remember is the younger the car with higher kms,
the more likely its all highway stuff at reduced engine revs/light load.

I wouldn't buy something with super high kms, on 2/3 year old vehicle
stay under 140k where most buyers want 40K or 50k, that really opens
up the field with accelerated depreciation. If you only do 15K-20K annually,
the early high ks will average lower over time and by seven or eight years
the vehicle will be seen as normal usage.

[prydey]

I don't think buying cars is really that simple.

just look for cars you like and then check each one on its own merit. If you don't do a lot of km, then its not really a concern for you.

buy the car in the best condition. generally its pretty easy to get an idea of how a car has been treated, and its not from looking at the odometer.

[Smoke Pursuit]

I would personally buy one with a few more kms that was newer then an older one...

1) Technology evolves quickly these days and simple things like Bluetooth versions change.


2) Updated models have production line changes and updates to fix early niggles.


3) Cars with bigger kms typically do more highway work which is typically better for them.

In saying that however I would always look at the history closely and the condition and I would tend to buy private over dealer (dealers cover alot up), private people these days don't seem to get too carried away.



Be wary of anything that is too cheap to be true and always do a www.ppsr.gov.au search.

[roddy1960]

Any second hand car comes with risk . It probably doesn't mean as much about kays or age as a good record of servicing/repair notes and a decent test drive IMO. Even better if you can get a mob( like in my case) Royal Auto Club of Tasmania to do a documented inspection before you sign on the dotted line , Might cost a few shillings but an independent and unbiased opinion is probably worth the extra dosh .

How do you chaps feel about buying ex Government/ department , ex rental , ex cop cars etc... That divides opinions too ..

[BENT_8]

If the cars you're interested in are reasonably local and you can look over them, then consider each on its merits, km's don't necessarily dictate condition.
If you're looking at stuff from further away or interstate whereby your taking a gamble or have to put in a bit of travel to check them out then i'd err on the side of caution and ask lots of questions and seek lots of pics before I committed to travelling or purchasing sight unseen.
Its nothing out of the ordinary in this day and age, but still buyer beware as sellers are always glass half full when giving descriptions.

[jinksie]

Highway mileage is preferable to city driving.
Definitely have a trusted mechanic check it out with his scan tool and everything is revealed.

Check for any recalls the model has had; look at model issues online in forums so you know the vehicle model you go for is a reliable one; for 2013 2015 there will be info about them. Look at the resale value of the model and earlier models so you know what to expect it will be worth

Preferably privately buy rather than the inflated resale from a Dealer but the seller can also over inflate the value if they are taking a big hit from buying new.

If you are up for it, buy at Auction but beware some vehicles are there because of issues but the savings can be huge.

You dont get much of a chance to run a scan tool on them or test drive. This is where Dealers get their cars. And worthwhile getting a big saving on a near new vehicle.

It is a buyers Market and it is best if time is on your side.
Write down exactly what you want in the model down to color and price and stick to it till you find it.

[BENT_8]

Its easy to say get it checked by your mechanic, buy private etc. etc. but the reality is, where do you start.

Being a late model car it may be encumbered, are you going to pay for a PPSR before you've had your mechanic look at it, if it passes the PPSR and falls over at the mechanical inspection how much have you then burned getting no where, rinse and repeat.
This is where buying from a dealer comes into its own, sure it'll cost more, but it'll come with a guaranteed title and a statutory warranty to cover both the above points.
Do you have a trade in, selling privately beforehand will often more than make up for the additional premium a dealer will ask for the new one.

There's an old saying in the motor industry, that car that you looked at today and will think about tonight sold this afternoon to the guy who looked at it yesterday and thought about it last night.
Moral of the story, if you mess the seller around or procrastinate, it might not be there when you realise its worth the coin.

I've bought and sold about 100 cars, only ever had 1 inspected and that was because the finance company wanted it done as I was buying it from family and never had anyone ask to have one done when buying from me.

[Itsme]

Originally Posted by roddy1960

Any second hand car comes with risk . It probably doesn't mean as much about kays or age as a good record of servicing/repair notes and a decent test drive IMO. Even better if you can get a mob( like in my case) Royal Auto Club of Tasmania to do a documented inspection before you sign on the dotted line , Might cost a few shillings but an independent and unbiased opinion is probably worth the extra dosh .

How do you chaps feel about buying ex Government/ department , ex rental , ex cop cars etc... That divides opinions too ..

Have had ex lease & police cars, both were great with trouble free running.
Both vehicles were well presented and appeared to be in good condition at time of inspection and drove very well.
Lease vehicle had high k's and police with low k's, I was happy with them.

cheers.

[mick taylor]

You can buy a Brand new car and have many problems. even become a rust bucket, seen that with a XC ute a mates brother bought from day one it just took over.
Engines blow up or use oil or gearbox is rubbish or diff noise.

When you by a 2ed hand you could be lucky or unlucky regardless as well, but I have seen brand new cars that have been smashed into and repaired bogged up, not to mention 2ed hand that's much more likely.
People who flog a car from cold, how does one know such a car, I would not touch such at all, a idiot mate wanted to sell me his 275KW SS with low KM in good nick but that idiot lived just up the road and would fire it up drive past my place foot into it and then around the corner just hold it flat out to 210KM/H every time, I could hear it and I have been in it with the same story and seen 210KM/H in no time, in a 70KM/H road. and he wanted me to buy it, I said you have got to be #%&(* joking ! I would never buy anything he drove or rode, he was complaining about the oil change Holden made him do because he claimed not enough KM were up. he also destroyed one clutch in it.

I believe that a car that has been driven hard is fine, if who drives it is not a fool.
But then again even one who toddles around can be really hard on the car, bike or truck because they are just hopeless incompetent drivers.

Look inside if it looks like it's been treated with no regard that's a warning that the owner was a fool and same story with the outside condition.

[jaydee]

Narrowed it down to 2 CX5's.
One is a 2014 with 109,00 on it for under 20K, the other is 2013 94,000 km for 23k, both exactly the same equipment level except the dearer one has a tow bar.
Thinking I'll go the 2014 one with slightly more kays and save 3 grand depending on condition.

[Crazy Dazz]

Originally Posted by jpd80

Thing to remember is the younger the car with higher kms,
the more likely its all highway stuff at reduced engine revs/light load.

No, that's a complete presumption,
and is not only illogical, but most often completely wrong.

For starters, its pure guesswork, unless you actually know the owner personally.
And it you were to guess, then your explanation makes no sense.
If a young car is turned over early with high kms, most times there will be a reason. It's a hire car, an Uber, or some form of reps' car.

People who are doing genuine highway mileage know their car is much better than the mileage suggests and so are likely to hang on to them.

[Crazy Dazz]

Originally Posted by jaydee

Narrowed it down to 2 CX5's.
One is a 2014 with 109,00 on it for under 20K, the other is 2013 94,000 km for 23k, both exactly the same equipment level except the dearer one has a tow bar.
Thinking I'll go the 2014 one with slightly more kays and save 3 grand depending on condition.

Nice cars, good choice.
I'm guessing at those prices, you're looking at a KE2, in AWD with the bigger engine??
(been looking around also)

What you have rumbled to is the "100k" psychological barrier. A car at 95kkms is more desirable than the same car at 105kkms, and in fact 100kk is the cut-off many dealers use for their 2nd hand stock.

[jaydee]

Originally Posted by Crazy Dazz

Nice cars, good choice.
I'm guessing at those prices, you're looking at a KE2, in AWD with the bigger engine??
(been looking around also)

What you have rumbled to is the "100k" psychological barrier. A car at 95kkms is more desirable than the same car at 105kkms, and in fact 100kk is the cut-off many dealers use for their 2nd hand stock.

Yes thats the one, bought it.
It's the Grand Tourer all the fruit with the 2.5 engine.
That 100,000km mark is the turning point, I just had to get past it, but it was in outstanding condition, never been off road from what I could see and 4 new tyres. Rego due unfortunately.

[eb2fairmont]

Okay

If it’s got the later Mazda connect system buy that. Mechanically not many issues they’re reliable and go okay.

I find the seating uncomfortable mother in law had one and disliked it immensely. I do like her cx3 more - I’d own one of those