AU Auto and Hi Stall - Page 3

xr8ute · 08-10-2005, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dauphin

Lockup is when the wheels are turning enough (after stall occurs) that it can lockup a clutch to finish with the fluid system and directly connect the engine to the wheels like a manual.

Yep, you've got it.

Because the lockup clutch is very small, it is generally only applied when the car is cruising > 80km/h with very low throttle percentage.

The lockup clutch is controlled by the EEC, and as Stav and Casper have hinted at, can be fooled easily with resistors and other electronic things I don't understand...lol.

Casper · 08-10-2005, 08:31 PM

The lock up is a simple 'on/off' switch signalled by the ECU. Even has its own wire to do it. All that is needed to disable it is to fit a toggle switch after the ECU that breaks the connection. That way the auto never gets a signal to lock up.

I recommend not messing with it in normal driving as not having a lockup is a pig on fuel.

Useful for the track though if your engine has enough power to compensate... which mine doesnt.

**Stav** · 09-10-2005, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

ok, lets look at this mathamatically. At 150kph (approx needed for a 14 second pass) you are traveling 4.1 m a second. So 0.7 seconds (difference between Jonbays best of 15.6 and a 14.9) is almost 29 meters. Average car is less than 4 meters long. Thats 7.25 carlengths at the line.

.

Casper I am confused with this formula? If I am travelling at 4.1 metres per second and I am 1/1/2 car lengths infront ..about 6 metres..right? The difference to beat is 0.7 to get a 14.9 right?(15.6 to 14.9).Then according to your calculations you then put me at least a full second ahead with a gap of approximately 6 metres.That puts me at 14.6 or better.i think somethings up with that formula??

0.7 seconds is 0.7 of 4.1..isnt it.1 second is the gap at 4.1? This equals 2.7 metres gap for a 14.9 pass not 29..? Confused me with all these maths..never was really good at it anyway.
My car wont run a 14.6 mate.??Its not the batmobile!! I am now aiming for a pedestrian 15.7 1/4

Casper · 09-10-2005, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Casper I am confused with this formula? If I am travelling at 4.1 metres per second and I am 1/1/2 car lengths infront ..about 6 metres..right? The difference to beat is 0.7 to get a 14.9 right?(15.6 to 14.9).Then according to your calculations you then put me at least a full second ahead with a gap of approximately 6 metres.That puts me at 14.6 or better.i think somethings up with that formula??

0.7 seconds is 0.7 of 4.1..isnt it.1 second is the gap at 4.1? This equals 2.7 metres gap for a 14.9 pass not 29..? Confused me with all these maths..never was really good at it anyway.
My car wont run a 14.6 mate.??Its not the batmobile!! I am now aiming for a pedestrian 15.7 1/4

Sorry, decimal in the wrong spot... 41.6 m a second. Therefore .7 of 41.6 = 29.1

**Stav** · 10-10-2005, 05:43 PM

Well..for the street this converter has been great on takeoff but not so powerful midrange.The stall speed is 3200 rpm. Off the line I haveyet to be beaten.I believe my 60ft times would be one ofthe quickest if not the quickest out of an AU auto in this country.Unfortunately we will never know.I am taking it back out.
I do not believe that a 3200rpm stall is good for the AU six.I believe that the ideal stall speed is 2500 to 2700 rpm.Whoever gets more is destroying their usable power band. If you want to be the red light king..this is the converter for you. As mentioned before I have pass everycar off the mark by 2 to 6 car lengths..its great fun.

My 0-100 before stall was 6.9 seconds.Now it is 7.45.

The stalled AU now would beat my standard AU by 2 car lengths at the lights but be the slower to 100 kays. I am quite determined to get rid of this but enjoy the getaway.
After timing my vehicle today I am heading for a 16.8 1/4 mile due to this unit.

It flings me forward,1st gear diaapears,then goes into second at 3200 rpm and locksup ..but too late then hits third at 3200 rpm and flies to 5500 rpm. Thos converter would accelerate my car much better if it was made to stall as requested at 2500-2700 rpm.Off the mark it would not be as fast but would be better to 100 and the 1/4.So there you go..bigger is not always better.The only other thing I am thinkng of is to get some 3.7 gears to make this work better..

10-10-2005, 06:08 PM

try it with the 3.7 diff gears before you take it out .
i can't see how it should slow your 0to 100 time down ,you'd think it would be quicker cosidering your lauching harder off the line

**Stav** · 10-10-2005, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nik

try it with the 3.7 diff gears before you take it out .
i can't see how it should slow your 0to 100 time down ,you'd think it would be quicker cosidering your lauching harder off the line

It launched much harder.Midrange seems less.To 70 kays the only benchmark I have is the run with JonBays which had me 1/1/2 ars in front and holding the gap equally after that.

**Stav** · 10-10-2005, 06:37 PM

Is the gtech stuffed?

xr8ute · 10-10-2005, 07:07 PM

I don't really understand what you mean when you say,

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

then goes into second at 3200 rpm and locksup ..but too late then hits third at 3200 rpm and flies to 5500 rpm

??

What rpm are you shifting at? If you where shiftng at 5500rpm, I wouldn't have thought the engine would drop that low into next gear...what are the ratios in the BTR 4-speed again?

What size where the SP300's you put on?

I still think you need more rubber...and change gears manually. I need to see this car before you rip it out.

**Stav** · 10-10-2005, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

I don't really understand what you mean when you say,
??

What rpm are you shifting at? If you where shiftng at 5500rpm, I wouldn't have thought the engine would drop that low into next gear...what are the ratios in the BTR 4-speed again?

What size where the SP300's you put on?

I still think you need more rubber...and change gears manually. I need to see this car before you rip it out.

The car still spins off the mark but moves well off the mark.In the higher gears lockup is very soft when the shift kit goes on it goes better.I think this stallie has reduced the line pressure. I have a 5ohm potetiometer in at the moment but will be going for a 10 ohm to make shifts harder and quicker.The car feels good when the shift kit is on but I trully did expect an improvemnt on times..When I press it it feels like there is more there but just isnt getting to the ground.I may just leave the shift kit on tommorow all day to see how it goes.

sp300 205/65/15

**Stav** · 10-10-2005, 10:27 PM

Well tonight I redesin\gned some tracks in the ecu and the car is screaming again...thank heavens!!

sfr rob · 10-10-2005, 11:21 PM

hey useless or someone else... would you be able to tell me something, since you seem to know way more than i, and i dont want to start another thread for nothing.
i have an i6.. non VCT....
I seem to have 'standard' power from 1000 rpms to about 3800rpms. after that is goes absolutely stupid and pulls like nothing else, only mods are k&n panel filter, 2.5' mandrel bent exhaust.
is there something i can do to get that power right across the rev range?
to get the most out of the car i have to drive it manually changing up on the red line. i imagine its no good... but the quicker the dif goes.. i guess i can look at something else! hehe.

when you say you re-mapped the computer, is that an aftermarket chip?

AND....

i take it you dont really recomend getting a high stall converter if your not drag racing with your car yeah?

**Stav** · 11-10-2005, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfr rob

hey useless or someone else... would you be able to tell me something, since you seem to know way more than i, and i dont want to start another thread for nothing.
i have an i6.. non VCT....
I seem to have 'standard' power from 1000 rpms to about 3800rpms. after that is goes absolutely stupid and pulls like nothing else, only mods are k&n panel filter, 2.5' mandrel bent exhaust.
is there something i can do to get that power right across the rev range?
to get the most out of the car i have to drive it manually changing up on the red line. i imagine its no good... but the quicker the dif goes.. i guess i can look at something else! hehe.

when you say you re-mapped the computer, is that an aftermarket chip?

AND....

i take it you dont really recomend getting a high stall converter if your not drag racing with your car yeah?

Hi bud.I would recommend jmm extractors and a unichip or chiptorque.You will remember me mate.....it will scream!!

A stall converter will be good if its not too big.

sfr rob · 11-10-2005, 12:40 AM

ok, jmm extractors and uni chip it is!
i have finally given in to the engine mods... i just HAVE to do more!

thanks mate

good luck with your beast!

cheers
Rob

Moya · 11-10-2005, 10:22 PM

Just go with the manual conversion. It's fun, you have full control of rev (thats captain obvious) and shouldn't be too much more than this. Most people do it for a touch under $2000.

Looks like a good product though.