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Old 03-05-2005, 01:54 PM   #1
Pete A
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Default Diff Whine

Yes - is is a common problem - mine was replaces at about 40,000 kms - make sure they use the propper diff oil! I believe it's a special kind for those 2000 model diffs.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:15 PM   #2
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Thanks alot guys. I'm looking at getting an AU Ute and coming across this thread, doesn't sound like a good idea. I suppose though that most problems should have been fixed.
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Old 09-02-2005, 03:01 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stocko_EA
Thanks alot guys. I'm looking at getting an AU Ute and coming across this thread, doesn't sound like a good idea. I suppose though that most problems should have been fixed.
Each model of car is going to have it's share of problems (or luckily not) spread amongst various owners, regardless if it's an AU, E-series or BA. There are a few of us here that have had a pretty good run so far, touch wood.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:53 PM   #4
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AUIII XR6 VCT UTE - 08/02

Purchased 30 Dec 2004. 69000K.

Replaced Radiator - Wrty (Replaced the thermostat a week before and it had a hole drilled in it, so it doesn't fix the problem!, New one (genunine Ford replacement) doesn't have the hole drilled....)

Steering rack - TBA, goes in on Friday, leaking and play.

Other than that it all appears good.
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Old 14-02-2005, 03:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul m
AUIII XR6 VCT UTE - 08/02

Purchased 30 Dec 2004. 69000K.

Replaced Radiator - Wrty (Replaced the thermostat a week before and it had a hole drilled in it, so it doesn't fix the problem!, New one (genunine Ford replacement) doesn't have the hole drilled....)

Steering rack - TBA, goes in on Friday, leaking and play.

Other than that it all appears good.
A new rack was installed, just need to get a decent wheel alignment.

Paul
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Old 04-10-2005, 10:03 PM   #6
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Default blackauxr699

I have owned a au 99 xr6 since brand new, this car has been a great car except for a few teething problems put it into ford for a service at 30.000 ks they replaced the gearbox, also needed a new petrol filter it came off on our way to Queensland.

I have driven this car to Melbourne and the Gold Coast with just my son and I and it never missed a beat I am very happy with my au
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Old 25-04-2006, 12:21 PM   #7
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Default interior lights

I have a 2000 auii xr8. GReat car , i have a problem with the interior lights staying on after car is locked and also staying on when driving. ant ideas????
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Old 12-02-2005, 07:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stocko_EA
Thanks alot guys. I'm looking at getting an AU Ute and coming across this thread, doesn't sound like a good idea. I suppose though that most problems should have been fixed.
If you buy one, you will not regret it. These cars are extremely reliable : :
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:09 PM   #9
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2000 model Au2,i had to put a new radiator in as the plastic end tanks were leaking,i replaced it with a series 1 copper radiator.
-Had the central locking module on both rear doors fail in the unlock position (1 under warranty) and 1 just recently.
-Had to fit a new coil pack as the coil for number 5 cylinder burnt out.
-Fitted a new battery as the old one died
-Have had the front window probs on both sides where it goes up extremely slow but they are both working good at the moment.
-Oh ive also got to replace the globe which shows you what gear you are in (auto tranny).Anyone know if you have to trake the whole centre console out to get to it?
Thats been about it for me.

Last edited by StevenAu2; 05-09-2005 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 06-06-2008, 07:41 PM   #10
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Default smart lock remotes

I have a 98 fairmont & would like to know how to programme the smart lock remotes can anyone help.
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Old 18-08-2014, 12:24 AM   #11
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Default Re: smart lock remotes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mefozzy View Post
I have a 98 fairmont & would like to know how to programme the smart lock remotes can anyone help.
May be too late but put the key in the ignition, turn to access, depress the demister button 3 times in 5 secs, press the door lock button on the remote...the buttons will cycle up and down a couple of times, and thats it
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Old 10-03-2005, 12:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Thanks alot guys. I'm looking at getting an AU Ute and coming across this thread, doesn't sound like a good idea. I suppose though that most problems should have been fixed.
Most cars have quite a few recalls in their lives. I can't find the site just now but there is one dedicated to motor vehicle recalls. No manufacturer is safe from product problems, not even Merc or BMW.

Most motor enthusiasts forums are filled with people looking for hints and tips on problems that occur. Don't be put off by this.
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Old 17-03-2005, 02:43 PM   #13
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Default Issues

I have recently purchased an AU2 VCT Xr6 75,000km

Issues include:

Valvetrain noise (potential Camshaft bearings or tappets)
Exhaust manifold leak (may have been caused by faulty rear exhaust hanger)
Brake rotors
Poor warm idle
Rear strut mounts
Drivetrain baclkash (though may be time for a new clutch soon)

The idling problem seems to be common anyone with any details of the fix for this?

Other wise electrical, upholstery and body are pefect will be more than happy once these things are fixed.

The majority of these appear to be as a result of poor mantenance I assume at the hands of the fleet management or leasing companies accountant.

Has anyone experienced similar issues with ex lease cars?


O
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Old 06-09-2005, 10:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loxxr6
Most cars have quite a few recalls in their lives. I can't find the site just now but there is one dedicated to motor vehicle recalls. No manufacturer is safe from product problems, not even Merc or BMW.

Most motor enthusiasts forums are filled with people looking for hints and tips on problems that occur. Don't be put off by this.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/home.cfm
thats the link i am shore ya talking about :
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Old 20-03-2005, 11:50 AM   #15
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Thumbs up

A few things I've had go wrong.

Water pump drip, nothing major.

Knocking noise in front right when braking and turning right - TBA

Blessings,

George
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Old 18-04-2005, 11:05 PM   #16
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Mainly effects AU Series 1

Problem : Horn stuck on or doesn't work at all

Cause : A short or a broken switch inside a sealed unit.

Fix : Not repairable, Must replace complete Hornpad,Airbag Module as a unit.

Cost : New from Ford $ 600.00
Used from wrecker $ 150.00

Ford service dept. has told me today that this is becoming a regular occurance with this model at the moment. The wrecker also said he has been selling and fitting these quite a bit lately.
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Old 02-05-2005, 09:25 AM   #17
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I bought an ex taxi AU 12 months ago with 748,400 kms. I do preventative maintenance myself. The car has done 42,000 k's in the last year. nothing has gone "wrong" with the car. I have just fitted a turbo kit.
The one cheap fix I would reccomend to anyone - The front end in the AU is said to be good for 300,000 k's, to re-do a front end costs $700 - $800. I bought a second hand front end (control arms, upper and lower ball joints, shocksetc...) out of a wrecked car (40,000k's) for $300, rattle gun and some isolator rubbers and tie rod ends later, you have a new front end for about $360. You will still need a wheel aignment.
I dont like ford service. They once chrarged me $92 for a quote! besides that in my experience they simply replace rather than fix. There are some mechanics who have been around the block (a few times) who will run rings around the dealerships in price and ingenuity.
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Old 03-05-2005, 01:51 PM   #18
Pete A
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Default AU common problems

I owned a AUII XR8 auto for 4 years - just bought BAIIXR8
The AU was generally very reliable - but had a few niggling problems which were mostly resolved during warranty

Noise in rear end when backing off the throttle - slowly got worse eventually changed the slipery diff and OK from then - this is a common problem with the AU's

Sometimes a loud clonk when tranny changes from 2nd to 1st at low speeds - this was a limited factory recall - only if you complained. A new throttle body on the tranny . OK from then.

Rear top shock mounts went - started banging. Changed and fine since then.

Hand brake not releasing properly - they never were able to fix it!

Never broke down on me and got a great price when I sold it privately! I hope the BA is as good as the AU was, but not off to a good start.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:37 PM   #19
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Pete A, based on your post count, welcome to the forums!

You mention using the correct type of diff oil in your post. Are you saying that most/some of the AU diff problems are actually just caused by using the wrong oil and if so maybe that they don't come with the correct oil from factory? Or were you just mentioning the oil as a side-note to the problem ie. not directly related to it? (I suppose this depends on the diff too now that I think about it - diffenent AU diffs used different types of oil and/or additives. This brings me to ask another question for everyone - which AU diffs were affected by these 'common problems' I hear about? eg. AU1/2/3, just 6cyl diff or 6cyl LSD or V8/XR live/LSD or IRS w/LSD or just all or 'em were bad or what??

As a note, I haven't noticed any problems with mine yet (XR8 ute - LSD live axle). Car is only 27,000 odd kays though. I did dump the factory oil and fill it with fresh SHC ID when the car was pretty new though for what it's worth.

Steve.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:59 PM   #20
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Mine was fine @ 90k Au2 xr8 ute Mal Wood inspected the gears and said they were in top condition
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:30 AM   #21
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Well my first Au was a lemon 99 build 1 tonner seriously when i bought it in july 2004 till the time of its departure in november 2004 it spent nearly every week at cumberland ford for something anyways i told them from day one the T5 that it had was stuffed well when it decided to spill its guts across Appein road at 90kms and turn up barely going they still said that there was no problem.

never buy a ford form there unless you want to be F-------- over,

Well since getting the 98 Au fairmont i have now it has had the CV,s replaced,CD stacker replaced,exhaust,waterpump,thermostat and the car has only 120kms top car as ive driven BA and i reckon they are overated as id prefer my AU anyday.
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Old 13-05-2005, 08:33 PM   #22
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So far I have noticed the fuel gauge problem on my EGAS AUII XLS.

Only sometimes it will just go dead empty and show DTE - 0 ... but slowly climbs back up to the right capacity (takes about 30 min to do so though).

Has happened a few times ... once after stopping really hard ... strange ... other times it just shows empty when starting ... I turn the car off and then on again .... and it rights itself.
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Old 18-05-2005, 10:41 PM   #23
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Problems I have had with my AUII 2000 are:
Welsh Plug at back of block behind gearbox leaked coolant quicker than I can pee. Cost of part was $3, labour hundreds as gear box had to come out too. Replaced all 6 steel plugs with brass and while everything was out and apart all seals etc were replaced. All up $800.
Shockers absooutely screwed
Rotors completely warped but i do play footy in the hills.
Little clock in dash the numbers stop displaying 100% and only could see bits and pieces of number.
Steel frame piercing through seat.
The door locks are another problem. When you press the lock button on remote a door doesnt lock but you hear the lock motoring. Well something is stufed and ford charge $200 then what happens two days later another door goes.

Last edited by MrAUII; 18-05-2005 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 18-05-2005, 11:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAUII
Steel frame piercing through seat.
....... :|
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Old 01-09-2005, 09:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
So far I have noticed the fuel gauge problem on my EGAS AUII XLS.

Only sometimes it will just go dead empty and show DTE - 0 ... but slowly climbs back up to the right capacity (takes about 30 min to do so though).
It's still happening on each of our 5 BA EGas work utes!! No point rushing into a fix...
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Old 16-04-2007, 09:23 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
So far I have noticed the fuel gauge problem on my EGAS AUII XLS.

Only sometimes it will just go dead empty and show DTE - 0 ... but slowly climbs back up to the right capacity (takes about 30 min to do so though).

Has happened a few times ... once after stopping really hard ... strange ... other times it just shows empty when starting ... I turn the car off and then on again .... and it rights itself.


Funny, exactly the same problem has happened on my AUIII dedicated gas sedan - and just the same as you the empty reading clears itself after turning the engine on and off a couple of times. The only difference with me was that once while I fiddled with it without turning the engine off - it read a totally full tank - went from one extreme to the other. Only happened twice in 3.5 years of ownership.
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Old 19-06-2005, 05:02 PM   #27
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its good to have so many answers to our probs ive had my car 2 wks luv it only it has a rough idle problem also i think we need to start a forum on Venom AU XR's cause there seems to be a few
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Old 19-06-2005, 06:35 PM   #28
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Default checking for stuffed rear strut mounts

Fold down your rear seats. Where the metal hooks stick out to latch the seat back there is some christmas tree clips holding back a carpet cover. Rip those out (They are cheap to replace if you wreck them) and expose the top of the strut. Put your finger on and top and give it a wiggle. You will hear your clunk.
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Old 20-06-2005, 03:29 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TuffEDXR
ialso i think we need to start a forum on Venom AU XR's cause there seems to be a few
Yes you are definitely right. : I'll put that down as a common problem with the AU - there isn't enough of them. :1syellow1
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Last edited by Dark Horse; 20-06-2005 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:36 PM   #30
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I have a 2000 AUIIs. The shocks feel very hard on rides. Can hear clanks when i go over a bump and all my body parts are thoroughly shaken.

Is this common with sports suspensions or does it need to be fixed.

Also my indash CD player is gone. Doesn't like any CD. Tried all kinds of random combination. Had a problem for an yr before it gave up. It is easy to replace the player with another off the shelf unit

Suggestions?
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