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30-09-2014, 10:14 PM | #1 | ||
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Random I know...
Basically I bought a trailer that sat a little higher than my car, which made the trailer sit on a bit of an angle when towing... Obviously when it's fully loaded it would sit a bit lower, but I'm doubting it would sit level even then. Now I've compounded the issue by lowering the car... So I figure I need to lower the trailer to match. But this pic shows the difference now with the trailer sitting level. As you can see, the trailer needs to come down a fair way lol Trailer has leaf springs and air shocks, as far as I can tell there's no air in the shocks. I was thinking either flipping, or removing a spring, or finding some sort of lowering block? Any issues with either (or both) of these options? |
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30-09-2014, 10:19 PM | #2 | ||
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ive seen both opitions done on trailers
is the axle mounted under the leafs or is it contained (meaning mounted on top of the leaf) |
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30-09-2014, 10:20 PM | #3 | ||
Brodes
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Maybe check the bump stop distance first to see how far you can go down. Flipping a leaf(s) may reduce the load weight capacity. Other than those issues I can't see any reason why you can't.
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30-09-2014, 10:24 PM | #5 | ||
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chuck some smaller wheels on like those off a mini, that will drop it in a hurry
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30-09-2014, 10:34 PM | #6 | |||||
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Quote:
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30-09-2014, 10:39 PM | #7 | ||
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30-09-2014, 10:44 PM | #8 | ||
454 Power
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You can't get one of those tow hitches that are adjustable height?
Like this: http://www.marks4wd.com/mhabm.html
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30-09-2014, 10:52 PM | #9 | ||
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Those leafs look like they could handle 2t
But the proper way to do it would be to modify the drawbar.
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30-09-2014, 10:56 PM | #10 | ||
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Fit lowering blocks between the axle and the spring, the way it was done 40 years ago. I think it is illegal to lower cars that way now, but I don't think it would matter with a trailer,
or get a spring specialist to fit lighter springs those ones look far too heavy
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30-09-2014, 11:01 PM | #11 | ||
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Yeah it's definitely over engineered lol.
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30-09-2014, 11:03 PM | #12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Hi. +1 for this and while you have the tools out take the shockies off or mount them so the bottom of the shocks are at the spring, all that their doing at the moment is providing a point to roll around. Cheers MD
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01-10-2014, 07:08 AM | #13 | ||
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I'll bet that trailer bounces around on any slightly uneven surface, looks like Land Cruiser springs.
Are brakes fitted, if you're only going up to 750 kg you could fit a lot lighter spring. As said before, modify drawbar. |
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01-10-2014, 07:23 AM | #14 | ||
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I have seen the hitches mounted on the underside of the draw bar. Not that style of hitch but look around I'm sure I have seen them on the underside.
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01-10-2014, 07:47 AM | #15 | ||
Wirlankarra yanama
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2T load will lower it, however there may be other unintended consequences.
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01-10-2014, 07:50 AM | #16 | ||
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Move the plate that the hitch is mounted on to the bottom of the drawbar instead of the top. That looks like it would gain you about 75mm.
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01-10-2014, 09:47 AM | #17 | ||
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You could get the springs reset, or fit different springs, but reducing the height might mean the need to reposition the lower shocker mount.
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01-10-2014, 09:58 AM | #18 | ||
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That looks like it should be moved anyway.
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01-10-2014, 10:01 AM | #19 | ||
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Try not to drive it around too much as it is now, looks like the bottom front lip of the trailer will foul with the road if you drive into a bit of a dip followed by a decent incline.
Lowering blocks + Possible removal of a few spring leaves + Smaller tyres + swapping hitch to below draw bar would be the way I would do it. You may only need to do 3 of the above to get the results you need.
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01-10-2014, 10:37 AM | #20 | ||
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That thing would be so heavy for the amount of load it can carry, 6 leaf springs!? it wouldn't be that easy to move around without hooking the car up
What do you want to use it for?
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01-10-2014, 04:25 PM | #22 | ||
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You will need to do more than one thing to get the trailer to sit level.
Those springs are way too heavy, unless your hauling huge loads, I would reset the springs, add lowering blocks, change wheels, and may be then finally adjust draw bar if needed.
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01-10-2014, 04:50 PM | #23 | ||
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Doesn't look to be a whole lotta room between the frame and that axle. Lowering it much more would close that up even further.
And jeez, those springs!!! Are they off a semi?? |
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01-10-2014, 04:57 PM | #24 | ||
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Sounds like a great idea!
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01-10-2014, 05:59 PM | #25 | ||
Wirlankarra yanama
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I would avoid changing wheels/tyres to a very small size (as in mini wheels). They will rotate at higher speeds, parts may wear and fail sooner, not to mention load carrying will be much less.
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01-10-2014, 06:04 PM | #26 | ||
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Great advice guys, thanks.
I'm thinking of removing the shocks completely, lose a spring leaf or two, make some spacers to act as lowering blocks (I'm thinking some appropriate sized square box section should do the trick. As for wheels I have some Tickford 17s hiding in the shed, I might measure them up and see if the height on them is any less. |
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01-10-2014, 06:15 PM | #27 | ||
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If you go to a reputable trailer sales shop you can actually get a new axle that had a step up/down depending on what way you fit them
we had them on our old ski boat trailer and with a 75mm drop made the trailer look as though it was very low like this one Jason
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01-10-2014, 06:36 PM | #28 | ||
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01-10-2014, 06:39 PM | #29 | ||
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Buy a taller tow ball, they cheap and will gain about 50mm, did the as e on my xr8 when towing my tandem
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01-10-2014, 07:02 PM | #30 | ||
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Yeah I need to gain 150-160mm lol
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