Replacing Ford Focus Battery

[BlackLS]

After parking with the nose uphill in Kings Cross last night and trying to get the thing started (damn Focus fuel pickup) after 3 or so goes on the starter motor I had drained the battery and I had to flag down a taxi to get it jump started.

Before this I knew there was something up with the battery, if I only did little 5 min trips the car would eventually run out of starting power in a week. Battery is the original from new (Nov 05) and has done 185,000kms

So enough was enough and I decided to fork out for a new battery.

The standard battery is a DIN53LMF. This is standard in the WP/WQ (not sure about WS) Fiesta and all models of Focus, except ST170 (not sure on LS onward XR5s)

Both LR and LS onward battery boxes have the provision to fit the DIN65LMF battery, which is found in the ST170. For an extra $20 it is worth the extra power especially if you put extra demand on the electrical systems with fog lights, car fridges or big stereos.


Steps to Change Battery:


1. Remove metal jewellery, take off battery cover and remove terminals with 10mm ring spanner. When doing the +ve post, be careful not to touch anything else with the spanner or you may short out the battery and blow your car up. Wrapping the rest of the spanner with electrical tape is a good way to prevent this.


2. Unclip the wiring looms from the front of the battery box and move out of the way. You'll need to undo the left battery retainer nut to get the -ve cabling out the way.
3. Unclip the front of the battery box and pull out


4. Undo the other nut for the battery retainer beam/bracket (will need a 10mm socket and short extension bar.


5. Slide and angle battery out


6. Clean out the box


7. Remove the short battery spacer (if you replace the battery with the larger one)




8. Remember that you can't open the tailgate without electricity.



9. Replace battery and put everything back together, remembering to put the front of the battery box on before clamping the terminals back on.

[marg99]

Did you have any problems with the radio code or need to reset any thing in the car? Have heard that some times the ECU or Body Computer can reset to standrad loosing any alterations that may have been done.

[ptwhite2003]

FWIW, I avoid shorting out the positive terminal by disconnecting the earth terminal first, and reconnecting it last. Easier than wrapping a spanner in electrical tape.

[Tj-zetec]

Really? i always disconnect the positive first.
I'm always concerned that if i disconnect the earth first that it might touch the body or the engine and earth on that.

Oh, and I have accidentally shorted the positive terminal with the spanner touching something it shouldn't have.

Didn't do any damage. Except i needed fresh jocks.

[ptwhite2003]

According to my (possibly questionable) logic, if you remove the negative terminal first, then you can 't complete a circuit if you accidentally short the positive to the bodywork when disconnecting that one. Hence no sparks and smoke.

Here's a link I found explaining it: http://www.hrps.demon.nl/jwbus/safety.htm

Anyone see it differently?

[bodes-sh]

no...the positive and negative terminals have to be connected to the battery to complete the circuit. d/c the negative terminal first is how it's supposed to be done, it won't "short" out on anything, because anything it touches, apart from the positive terminal, is connected back to the negative terminal...

so, in short, always disconnect the negative terminal first, and you don't have to worry about short circuiting things as the circuit is no longer complete...

[BlackLS]

With the focus the -ve terminal in a less than accessable area under the windshield shrouding, it's too easy to let go of the spanner and have it short terminal to terminal, which could cause problems regardless of if you take the +ve terminal off.

The safest way is what I suggested in my post.

[Conquest_Tsi]

How much was the normal batterly and the bigger one?

Where did you get them?

Nice walkthrough, thanks

[BlackLS]

DIN53LMF - $175 for Supercheap brand (has no health indicator)
$205 for Century from Supercheap
$199 for Repco (rebranded Century)

DIN65LMF
$225 for Century from Supercheap (has no health indicator)
$220 for Repco (rebranded Century)

[marg99]

Watch the price difference because it is usually associated with a shorter warranty period. The basic Supercheap batteries usually have only 6 months while century go 12 month upwards (depending on price ) My expeiernce todate is that auto batteries nearly always out last the warranty, but not by much!

[zetec]

My original Motorcraft battery powered on like a train for well over 100,000km. Very impressed.

Did you enquire prices with Ford for another genuine battery?

DIN55 - Standard - $205 at full retail

DIN66 - ST170/Heavy Duty - $240 at full retail

Both come with a 2 year warranty I believe. And both I'm sure can be had a t better prices of Dealers are doing specials or something. Quite often they buy in bulk and sell at big discount.

[BlackLS]

No I didn't, that's good to know - the local parts department seem pretty good - returning there months after buying new belts, as soon as the guy saw me he asked how the belts went.

Problem is the only time I can get to the parts dept is every second Saturday morning - I tend to be very compulsive on when I decide to work on the car so no go there.

[zetec]

From memory I sold the car around 100,000km and replaced the battery with another Motorocraft simply because I didn't want the new owner getting a flat battery within 3 months. Voltage seemed a little low but it hadn't actually gone flat. Most impressed - maybe they're all like that, batteries are getting better and better with longer warranties.