Replacing fuel pump

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 11:39 AM

Hi guys,

Sorry to post this outside of my original post but i really need some help with this as it's bordering on impossible to get a decent result with google and the tech forum seems very lonely.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=110475

bodes-sh · 28-07-2007, 12:11 PM

what do you need to know about replacing it? I have done one recently on my au, and let me tell you, never again lol.....

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

what do you need to know about replacing it? I have done one recently on my au, and let me tell you, never again lol.....

how to do it would be a good start?

svo347 · 28-07-2007, 04:44 PM

Im sure its no different to the eseries
Remove the boot carpet and find the access plate, remove the hoses then the screws. Remove the pump and swap over its pretty brief mate, but the changeout is simple.
The hardest part on the e series was undoing the large hoseclamp that holds the screw cap on

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 05:02 PM

Thanks heaps, atleast now i have a starting point, off to go see if i can't find it

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 05:09 PM

umm yeah next stupid question.. where is the access plate?..

So far after taking out the boot carpet all i'm seeing of major notice is a black disc (cover maybe) about 8inch diameter with a few wires heading into it.

RG · 28-07-2007, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goldfire

umm yeah next stupid question.. where is the access plate?..

So far after taking out the boot carpet all i'm seeing of major notice is a black disc (cover maybe) about 8inch diameter with a few wires heading into it.

That'll be it.

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 05:25 PM

ok next problem... is there a way to take it off without destroying it..

I'm trying to lift/pry/pop it open with screw drivers but all i'm doing is bending up the sides..

stiddy · 28-07-2007, 05:40 PM

The sides will bend, try to use 2 screwdrivers one on either side, life and wiggle them in towards each other as you do it. Can bend it straight again before you put it back on.

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 06:05 PM

I'm getting some pics off my camera to post up, maybe this can be turned into a little guide or something seeing as i couldn't find any step by steps out there.

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 06:32 PM

ok here goes, first time doing this so i may stuff it up. I'm not sure how to do thumbnails at the moment so i do apologise.

Pic A: Plate has been removed but put back into position as referance for anyone else looking for it.

Pic B: Pump Assembly as is after plate removal, with flash to show up as much detail as possible.

Pic c: Top shot of removed plate.

Pic d: Bottom shot of removed plate.

I rang a couple of mechanics to confirm that i was attacking the right thing, one of them was real helpful but also gave me the gloomy bit when he told me there is no way to remove it without destroying it due to the rubber compound ford use to seal it, I'll see if i can't get another made up at a sheet metal place in the shape of a coffee can lid or something. That will hopefully make it easier to remove next time.

Are there any tips/tricks to finding out if my pump is truelly cactus?, and also could someone recommend me a replacement. Repco has "Fuel Miser" and that so far is my only lead.

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 06:33 PM

One thing i would like to know is, considering the amount of effort and strength i had to put into removing the plate. How the hell is the pump so dirty?

bodes-sh · 28-07-2007, 06:47 PM

that's the top of the fuel tank you're looking at....it's not sealed up around there, so any dust or dirt that gets in there stays there....

as for pumps, i got one off ebay for $100 incl postage, it's only a cheap aftermarket one, but it works no problems, i reckon the hardest bit is trying to get the new pump hose onto the cradle that houses the pump.....the one i got was really dodgy, so i went to supercheap and got a meter of fuel injection hose and used that instead.....seems to be working fine so far

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 06:56 PM

ok so far i've researched the following.

Acdelco "Ep119au" http://www.acdelco.com.au/pumps.htm

FuelMiser "fpe288" - can't find web info on it.

bodes-sh · 28-07-2007, 07:05 PM

this is the one i got, still seems decent enough, considering getting a walbro or similar whenever this dies......
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-A...QQcmdZViewItem

goldfire · 28-07-2007, 07:19 PM

might have to get me one of them, first off however i want to make sure that the current one is dead, or dying.

what would be the steps for testing the unit?

TwistedEL · 28-07-2007, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goldfire

might have to get me one of them, first off however i want to make sure that the current one is dead, or dying.

what would be the steps for testing the unit?

Take it out of the car and apply 12v to see if it still pumps

waggaclint · 28-07-2007, 08:55 PM

go the fuelmiser mate there pretty good hey ive fitted heaps of them to all sorts of cars neva had a problem....
to test the pump (afta ya check all the fuses and relays etc RAC should have already done this for ya)
1. turn you ign on and see if ya can hear the pump it will buzz or hum...
2. if no buzz etc check to see if any power (with a test light) is getting to the pump when ya 1st turn ign on and when trying to start....if there is power etc and nothing is happening you pump will be shot
3. also you can remove pump and in a safe area away from fuel put 12volts to the pump and see if it goes....

hope this helps ya out...

goldfire · 29-07-2007, 03:12 AM

Thank you all very much so far for helping me out with this, I'm forced to admit i'm a little vague on a couple of things however.

First off a little background info which i really should've put in earlier, long story short wife went to start car at work, car won't start, wife calls RAC, RAC check batt, batt all good then somehow and i'm not entirely sure how he/she came to this conclusion but they made mention the fuel pump was on it's way out. Wife said they tapped around in the boot for a bit and then car started. Apparantly according to wife RAC said could work fine now, stall out half way home, work fine tomorrow, work fine for 2 weeks/months or not work at all.

Inregards to testing the unit the rear of my car isn't the most audio friendly due to a rust damaged tail pipe so i don't know if i'll be able to really hear it.

If i remove the unit and attempt to run 12v through it, should i actually try to pump some kind of fluid through it to make sure it's pumping strong enough?, say water as long as i leave it out to dry enough before reinstalling it.

Also I'm afraid i don't understand the meaning of a test light?. I'm thinking just a ordinary low watt light with some wires rigged to it that i can insert into the relevant power connector, or is it some form of actual tool?

Thanks again and i'll endevour to keep this thread posted till i've repaired it or the thread gets closed/deleted.

waggaclint · 29-07-2007, 09:54 AM

so is the car running does it go or has it broken down....if so it is hard to tell if you need a new pump or not....

TwistedEL · 29-07-2007, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goldfire

Thank you all very much so far for helping me out with this, I'm forced to admit i'm a little vague on a couple of things however.

First off a little background info which i really should've put in earlier, long story short wife went to start car at work, car won't start, wife calls RAC, RAC check batt, batt all good then somehow and i'm not entirely sure how he/she came to this conclusion but they made mention the fuel pump was on it's way out. Wife said they tapped around in the boot for a bit and then car started. Apparantly according to wife RAC said could work fine now, stall out half way home, work fine tomorrow, work fine for 2 weeks/months or not work at all.

Inregards to testing the unit the rear of my car isn't the most audio friendly due to a rust damaged tail pipe so i don't know if i'll be able to really hear it.

If i remove the unit and attempt to run 12v through it, should i actually try to pump some kind of fluid through it to make sure it's pumping strong enough?, say water as long as i leave it out to dry enough before reinstalling it.

Also I'm afraid i don't understand the meaning of a test light?. I'm thinking just a ordinary low watt light with some wires rigged to it that i can insert into the relevant power connector, or is it some form of actual tool?

Thanks again and i'll endevour to keep this thread posted till i've repaired it or the thread gets closed/deleted.

The pump should run for just a second when you turn the ignition key to on - you don't have to start it.

Jokular · 29-07-2007, 02:54 PM

I think by a test light he means the clear handled screwdriver looking thing that has a removable wire in the top (wire is for earth). Test by putting the pointy bit of the screwdriver on the terminals (where the wires meet the pump) or pushing the pointy bit through the plastic of the wires to see if there is a current (the handle will light up if there is current).

goldfire · 29-07-2007, 03:13 PM

sorry about not mentioning yes the car is running, I did a test start yesterday to see if i could hear the pump.

bodes-sh · 29-07-2007, 03:28 PM

well, the only reason i replaced mine was because my car was pinging, seems to have helped a lot, but occasionally after a gear shift, usually at low revs it still does it...

waggaclint · 29-07-2007, 10:12 PM

if the car is running the fuel pump is working.....maybe ya dont need a new one...

goldfire · 30-07-2007, 05:15 AM

wife was told it could run but may die out on the freeway or something, which i suppose in retrospect is true for all mechanical things.

She's due for a service anyway so i'll get shell out the extra and get them to clean/check it, if it is cactus then i'll change it.

Thanks very much everyone.

paddy_au2 · 29-12-2007, 07:07 PM

After having a bloke from roadside assist coming down to scope out the problem with my car it seems i need to replace the fuel pump. i've bought a new one for $120, a fuelmiser from autobarn and i'm assured it's the right one. so i've got the cover plate in the boot off easy as, didn't bend it or anything which is tops but that was the easy part. i have a couple of questions just wondering if anyone could answer them??

first off, if the fuel pump is busted already would this imply that there is no fuel pressure and hence i wouldn't need to remove the relay to reduce the pressure etc?

secondly, has anyone done this start to finish without struggle? if so, are there any special tools you used or did you just get by with your average sort of tool arsenal, flat head screwdrivers, spanners, shifters, clamps etc?

finally, does anyone have the gregory's falcon guide (no. 274). it has a guide on how to do it yes, but there's a few things that aren't totally made clear.

chances are a mechanic mate of mine will help put it in. if/when he does i'll take photos etc to post up cos i didn't find a whole lot up here when it came to the nitty gritty stuff.

cheers everyone,
pat

WoodysXR6 · 29-12-2007, 07:14 PM

I have just got a question sorry to intrude on your thread, but is a eb xr8 fuel pump the same as a xr8 220 as i have a spare one and it looks to be the same setup?

**Stav** · 30-12-2007, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddy_au2

After having a bloke from roadside assist coming down to scope out the problem with my car it seems i need to replace the fuel pump. i've bought a new one for $120, a fuelmiser from autobarn and i'm assured it's the right one. so i've got the cover plate in the boot off easy as, didn't bend it or anything which is tops but that was the easy part. i have a couple of questions just wondering if anyone could answer them??

first off, if the fuel pump is busted already would this imply that there is no fuel pressure and hence i wouldn't need to remove the relay to reduce the pressure etc?

secondly, has anyone done this start to finish without struggle? if so, are there any special tools you used or did you just get by with your average sort of tool arsenal, flat head screwdrivers, spanners, shifters, clamps etc?

finally, does anyone have the gregory's falcon guide (no. 274). it has a guide on how to do it yes, but there's a few things that aren't totally made clear.

chances are a mechanic mate of mine will help put it in. if/when he does i'll take photos etc to post up cos i didn't find a whole lot up here when it came to the nitty gritty stuff.

cheers everyone,
pat

Hi Pat. I have the wagon and its a little different but I have installed 4 pumps to it in experimentation.If you have no fuel pressure it can be a bad pump or regulator or severe blockage.Most likely the pump.In saying that my walbro was failing and the pressure gauge showed good fuel pressure but a flow test showed it was shot. It takes me 25 minutes to drop remove my fuel tank and have a new pump in.If your car is a sedan it should take 7 to 10 minutes as you dont need to drop your tank.The access is in the boot.

Tools are a hammer and flat blade screwdriver.This is used to remove the round retaining clip which holds the pump assembly into the tank.Once it is removed you only need to unclip a few clips install yours and put it all back together.

**Stav** · 30-12-2007, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xr220Au3

I have just got a question sorry to intrude on your thread, but is a eb xr8 fuel pump the same as a xr8 220 as i have a spare one and it looks to be the same setup?

Despite alot of misinformation I do know that our pumps are not bosch but ac delco...Do a google search and their catalogue shows part numbers and vehicle applications.