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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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02-10-2012, 11:03 PM | #1 | ||
Thailand Specials
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Hey guys, just curious if anyone knows the reason for older cars, particularily British ones for using positive ground electrical systems back in the day? Why be the opposite to everything else?
Was there a particular reason? |
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03-10-2012, 12:26 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Kind of makes sense...anywhere you stick a wire onto the car, it's going to be live.
The earthing issues are a nightmare though.. Neither of my English cars had it...a 1973 Austin A30 and a 1957 Morris Minor...but I heard from other guys with positive ground cars that it was a pain in the ****... |
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03-10-2012, 01:25 AM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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yes i can remember as a young buk doing the jump start on my mini, and touched doors while the jumpers where connected, got quite a nice spark off it, agreed pain in the kyber. have no idea the reason for + earth system.
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03-10-2012, 01:35 AM | #4 | ||
Where to next??
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My 59 Sprite left the factory like that. As for why? No idea. I actually can't remember if it was converted to neg earth now that I think of it? It ran 12v electrics but still used a generator. Sold her several years ago ;(
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03-10-2012, 06:49 AM | #5 | ||
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My first car was a 66 Ford Cortina 440. It had a positive earth system. I remember Tandy had a warehouse sale and I bought this auto reverse cassette player (wow!) to fit under the dash. My dad was an electrical engineer and of course he wanted to check the earthing before installing it. He solved the problem by isolating the mounting screws from the dash and wrapped the mounting bracket in tape. Worked a treat!
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03-10-2012, 08:36 AM | #6 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
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A lot of Mitsubishis' are positive ground, I know my Delica is, it's bluddy annoying.
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03-10-2012, 09:16 AM | #7 | ||
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The switch to negative earthing was more of a standards thing IMO.
The only reason I can think of where positive earth is superior is to protect from galvanic corrosion and this may have been a reason why car electrical systems started off being positive earthed. Old telephone exchanges use DC (50v) power and they are positive earth, for this reason I believe.
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03-10-2012, 11:50 AM | #8 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Most cars (UK and US and Oz) were positive earth at one time and it was the introduction of car radios that motivated the change to negative earth as positive earth vehicles caused more interference to the radios (or it was more difficult to achieve effective suppression). The UK lagged behind the 1940's change as unlike the affluent post war US in the UK car radios were very much a rare luxury item.
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 03-10-2012 at 12:06 PM. |
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03-10-2012, 07:10 PM | #9 | ||
The one and only
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Dad's Zephyr is pos ground, only pain was wiring the new HU.
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03-10-2012, 07:23 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Dont worry about pommy cars
the mighty Mack coolpower back in the seventies was positive earth I know I killed a almost brand new Sony radio cassette and any one that was around then they were about half a weeks wages to buy and you swapped them from car to car those were the days |
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03-10-2012, 11:20 PM | #11 | |||
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Quote:
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03-10-2012, 11:38 PM | #12 | ||
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just the sameas why some cars are left or right hand drive some countries originally decided positive earth was the way to go. the only real difference is when you install equipment which is polarised like a radio . the one thing they did find though is positive earth cars tend to rust more.
in old positive earth cars they could be changed over by changing the alternator and starter and reversing the battery terminals . also any other polarised equipment needs changing but in older cars this is not a big problem as would only be an old AM radio. as far as the alternator ( or more likely generator) and started are concerned if the right one is not available an auto electrician would be able to convert them with some internal rewiring
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03-10-2012, 11:48 PM | #13 | |||
playing in my big shed
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Quote:
thats what what i was told as well. an old mechanic / auto electrician told me that most of the old cars were originaly positive earthed and the main reason that the standard was changed to negative earthing was to combat the rust problem. this story was also backed up by a metal corossion scientist. this topic also relates to the other thread thats talking about the effectivnes of electronic rust prevention systems.
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04-10-2012, 12:21 AM | #14 | ||
BANNED
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I cannot see how earthing a car one way or another can determine the rust vulnerability factor.
The vehicles electrical system is independent of the earth by being on rubber tyres, excellent insulation. In any event there is no current flow from the car to earth. The most likely reason that a negative earth standard was adopted was the electronics industry settling on negative grounds for equipment such as radios, tape players, fans, lighting etc. The transistors predominantly used still to this day, are based on silicon rather than earlier germanium based ones and typically would have the emmitter polarity at negative potential in relation to the power source. Seems fair enough to me. |
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04-10-2012, 08:07 AM | #15 | |||
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04-10-2012, 08:18 AM | #16 | |||
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nothing to do with returning to actual earth it is due to electrolisys, the positive earth system encourages rust due to electrolosys
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Everyone starts off with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the experience bag before the luck bag is empty. "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." Start a new career as a bus driver Rides: FG2 XR6 stock at this stage but a very nice ride xc 4 DOOR X CHASER 5.8 UNDER RESTO |
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04-10-2012, 09:35 AM | #17 | ||
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yeah a electrical/chemical reaction due to ion changes in the molecular structure of metal changing it basically back to dirt or ore lol.
as you explained electrolosys. Rust is hard to beat,your fighting nature. the are some electronic products that stop the reaction happening on metal or i should say help slow it down. Even today in electronics there is still a oposite current theory and its american haha. It works on the princible of current flowing from neg to posative, exactly opposite to what 75% of the earth now study. I think this goes back to newton vs bell(the other guy?) and DC current vs AC It's rather the beta tapes system of electronics thinking but its still current thinking in some parts of the world. |
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04-10-2012, 09:39 AM | #18 | ||
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Most bridges ,buildings and metal frame objects have electronic help.
Sydney harbour would. |
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04-10-2012, 11:14 AM | #19 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Quote:
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_of_Currents Newton and Bell were not even contemporaries with Isaac Newton (the man famous for gravitational theory) dying in 1727and Alexander Graham Bell (famous for the telephone) not being born until 1847.
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 04-10-2012 at 11:20 AM. |
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04-10-2012, 11:35 AM | #20 | |||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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Another less often used and more difficult to manage option is anodic protection (see http://www.westcoastcorrosion.com/Pa...20&%20Apps.pdf) which is usually used in very acidic environments (mild or stainless steel equipment use for concentrated sulphuric acid, paper mill digesters and recausticizing storage tanks). In theory if all the metal in the car was coated with a suitable medium cathodic or anodic protection would work for a car but I (and the ACCC as I recall) am very skeptical of the most of the electronic products that are sold to protect cars from corrosion. The practical difficultly with electronic protection is that unless there is some means of monitoring and automatically adjusting the current density or potential to ensure you are getting the anodic or cathodic state you desire it might make things worse rather than better. There is also the difficulty of ensuring the current flows through all the parts you want to protect and some who sell these devices also package it with a conductive coating that is sprayed on (but then why not simply just spray the whole car with with probably cheaper and more effective deodorised fish oil?). Also see http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_100606/article.html although they also seemed to have forgotten about the lesser known option of anodic protection. Also see: http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic219494.htm Quote: "There have been two very good papers presented on the lack of scientific basis for using CP in this application: Baboian, R., CATHODIC PROTECTION OF AUTOMOBILES, DOES IT WORK, NACE Paper, Corrosion/87, 1987 and Materials Performance, Vol. 26, no. 7, 1987. Baboian, R., STATE OF THE ART IN AUTOMOBILE CATHODIC PROTECTION, PROCEEDINGS OF THE 5TH AUTOMOTIVE CORROSION AND PREVENTION CONFERENCE, SAE p-250, Society of Automotive Engineers, 1991 and SAE Transactions, Sept, 1992. The [US] Federal Trade Commission has taken a firm stance against firms that make claims of protecting cars by this technique." http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/08/rustevad.shtm Quote: "The Federal Trade Commission has charged RustEvader Corporation, the marketer of a purported electronic corrosion-control product for automobiles that is sold under the names "Rust Evader," "Rust Buster," "Electro-Image," and "Eco-Guard," with making false claims about the product, as well as about a demonstration and studies regarding its efficacy. The FTC also alleged that Rust Evader illegally included in its warranty a provision that requires consumers to pay for a bi-annual inspection at an authorized RustEvader dealer to keep their warranty in force." also see: http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car...c-car-rust.htm http://www.dansdata.com/danletters153.htm Off course if you chose to park your car in swimming pool, as some errant drivers have, Cathodic protection might be useful.
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 04-10-2012 at 11:49 AM. |
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04-10-2012, 11:41 AM | #21 | ||
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ahh yes a metal made to conduct corrosion before the object needed to protect.yeah ive seen that on documentries.
thanks for the corrction's aussiblue. I could not think of the names thats why i had the ?, but i do know it was a war between AC and DC, reverse polarity. of course newton the physics lol. had the wrong names but right idea. |
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04-10-2012, 11:58 AM | #22 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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"Now if the battery hasn't shorted, I know my electronic rustbuster is working."
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regards Blue |
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04-10-2012, 12:10 PM | #23 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
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and rather than preventing rust they can cause car fires:
http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/in...itemId/1013516
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regards Blue |
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04-10-2012, 12:35 PM | #24 | |||
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04-10-2012, 03:59 PM | #25 | ||
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My Anglia had + earth but i converted it to - earth so it was easier to wire in tachos and radios etc. From memory all that had to be done was to swap battery leads, coil wires and self excite the generator to accept the other polarity.
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04-10-2012, 06:04 PM | #26 | ||
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I was positively earthed once, got my finger between the earthing strip & the spark plug on a Briggs & Stratton powered cement mixer.
Certainly livened me up for the day.. Ed
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04-10-2012, 06:55 PM | #27 | |||
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04-10-2012, 06:58 PM | #28 | |||
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04-10-2012, 07:15 PM | #29 | |||
Thailand Specials
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04-10-2012, 08:37 PM | #30 | ||
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cathodic protection on gas pipes using impressed current or scarificed anodes of different material to drive current flow and the anodes wear away while protecting the metal you wanan protect.
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