Annual road worthy in NSW?

[Focused]

Hi all,
I've just moved to NSW and am curious to know, do I need to get a road worthy on my car every 12 months? It's a 2011 Focus with 38,000kms on it.

Whilst I agree with the idea of an annual road worthy, surely it's more appropriate once a car is over a certain age (5-7 years maybe?) I guess the policy was probably bought in last time Labor were in charge and thought they'd help out their automotive union buddies?

Thanks in advance.

[FPV GTHO]

I think its anything over 3 years old needs a yearly check. It's been around as long as I can remember

[Black F6]

my 2010 doesnt need one until next year, 5 years

[Focused]

Originally Posted by Black F6

my 2010 doesnt need one until next year, 5 years

Great thanks.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by Focused

Hi all,
I've just moved to NSW and am curious to know, do I need to get a road worthy on my car every 12 months? It's a 2011 Focus with 38,000kms on it.

Whilst I agree with the idea of an annual road worthy, surely it's more appropriate once a car is over a certain age (5-7 years maybe?) I guess the policy was probably bought in last time Labor were in charge and thought they'd help out their automotive union buddies?

Thanks in advance.

No unions involved, just mechanics, and unlike the rippoff Victorian workshops our mechanics cant charge more than $45 (I think)

[Yellow_Festiva]

5 years and I think the official fee is $34.10 actually.

Some workshops still do if for $25.

Will say on the rego renewal if an inspection is needed or not, and ask around for recommendations as to who to use, some are real tough and some are a little less stringent.

I think you only pay when they supply the slip, so if you take the car somewhere and they tell you you need a grand of repairs to pass just say OK and drive to another joint for a second opinion.

Just don't leave it till the last day!

[Focused]

Great thanks for the info. Since my car is just over 3 years old I should be fine for a while.

[The Yeti]

You pay for the inspection, so if it fails you still pay

I don't see a problem with it. It helps to keep **** boxes off the road. I know there will always be some getting "phone worthies" and others driving un registered but if it gets just some of the cars with stuffed front ends and the likes repaired before they go back on the road I don't see any harm in it at all

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by The Yeti

You pay for the inspection, so if it fails you still pay

I don't see a problem with it. It helps to keep **** boxes off the road. I know there will always be some getting "phone worthies" and others driving un registered but if it gets just some of the cars with stuffed front ends and the likes repaired before they go back on the road I don't see any harm in it at all

I have taken a car to one place and they knocked me back because tyres were worn, seat belt had some fuzz and apparently my rotors were shot. The place just happens to sell tyres and brakes mind you.

All this from a visual 'inspection' - a walk around and quick sticky beak when it was parked.

I told him to quote it for me and it was something silly... I said that I will get it done elsewhere with a thanks and drove out. Didn't pay anything.

Took it to another place, tyres had 50% (fine) rotors were fine with meat left and he ran a lighter down the seat belt with the 2cm of offending fuzz and that was now fine.

Just be wary of the sharks that will try and gouge you for unnecessary stuff - I know of ladies at work that have been very badly taken advantage of financially when getting these inspections done.

[devilcv8]

Originally Posted by Yellow_Festiva

I think you only pay when they supply the slip, so if you take the car somewhere and they tell you you need a grand of repairs to pass just say OK and drive to another joint for a second opinion.

Just don't leave it till the last day!

They are supposed to fill out a white slip(fail) so if you then shop around and the place you get it from has a history of being easy, you can expect a visit from the inspectors.

Best tip is good tyres and a clean tidy vehicle. They are less likely to be as picky.

[Tassie f100]

I think that any workshop that charges less than 3/4 hr labour isn,t checking properly considering the time to check all moving parts,removing wheels to check rotor condition and pad wear,and removing brake drums to check lining thickness and drum diameters.PS i also think that some low mileage vehicles are in better condition than a 2 Y.O that has done over 100k and probably has worn out brakes and tyres yet doesn,t require a check because it is less than required age.PPS in Tassie aren,t even required for Rego transfer,should see some of absolute Sxxxheaps driving around here.

[The Yeti]

Originally Posted by Yellow_Festiva

I have taken a car to one place and they knocked me back because tyres were worn, seat belt had some fuzz and apparently my rotors were shot. The place just happens to sell tyres and brakes mind you.

All this from a visual 'inspection' - a walk around and quick sticky beak when it was parked.

I told him to quote it for me and it was something silly... I said that I will get it done elsewhere with a thanks and drove out. Didn't pay anything.

Took it to another place, tyres had 50% (fine) rotors were fine with meat left and he ran a lighter down the seat belt with the 2cm of offending fuzz and that was now fine.

Just be wary of the sharks that will try and gouge you for unnecessary stuff - I know of ladies at work that have been very badly taken advantage of financially when getting these inspections done.

I didn't say the system was fool proof, or wasn't open to a few opportunistic operators but as a whole its not a bad system

Bill, Bob & Ben's Tyre's brakes and suspension you went to should have written you out a white slip (failure) I suspect he new he was shonky and giving you a failure for something that clearly isn't leaves the inspection station open to a "Please explain your over zellious inspections) I've had one of these when I had my shop but it was easily explained, I've had plenty more get rejected only to then shop it around and the inspector pay them a visit only to have their car defected and the other shop have their own please explain, in some cases they got a warning in others they got a little holiday from writing regos (word travels fast when your on a strip that has a number of mechanics)

[kypez]

Are you bringing your vehicle interstate? If so, you might still need a Pink slip part of the first time registration in NSW. Pretty sure I needed one on the Falcon I bought in Victoria that was brand new but I could be wrong. Worth checking.

[The Yeti]

if your changing from VIC to NSW rego you will need a BLUE slip

its basically a pinkslip roadworthy with an vehicle ID check as well

[Vesper Martini]

I haven't lived in NZ for years but I always liked the independent testing stations.
not sure of their cost, but you know they wont fail you to make extra cash

http://www.vtnz.co.nz/services/wof?g...3TdBoC1q3w_wcB

[Lunch]

This is a great idea and should be introduced in Victoria.

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

I think that any workshop that charges less than 3/4 hr labour isn,t checking properly considering the time to check all moving parts,removing wheels to check rotor condition and pad wear,and removing brake drums to check lining thickness and drum diameters.PS i also think that some low mileage vehicles are in better condition than a 2 Y.O that has done over 100k and probably has worn out brakes and tyres yet doesn,t require a check because it is less than required age.PPS in Tassie aren,t even required for Rego transfer,should see some of absolute Sxxxheaps driving around here.

Time is not a factor. It's a set fee whether the inspection takes 20 min or 2hrs.

[Focused]

Originally Posted by The Yeti

if your changing from VIC to NSW rego you will need a BLUE slip

its basically a pinkslip roadworthy with an vehicle ID check as well

I will be, thankyou. I plan to head down to the RTA shortly and start the paperwork rolling...

This is a great idea and should be introduced in Victoria.

I'd agree that the annual roadworthy is a good idea, although only on cars older than 5 or so years (which does seem to be RTA's policy).

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by The Yeti

if your changing from VIC to NSW rego you will need a BLUE slip

its basically a pinkslip roadworthy with an vehicle ID check as well

If memory serves, it is not as involved as a full blue slip, I had one done when I swapped an engine and the guy tried to charge me the full rate. The ID check is a lower fee. This was several years ago now but perhaps if you come from a state that doesn't do regular inspections a full blue slip is needed?

The RMS site has all this info broken down into each type and price.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by Yellow_Festiva

Time is not a factor. It's a set fee whether the inspection takes 20 min or 2hrs.

So you reckon a mechanic is going to spend 2 hours to gross
Less than $40 yeah I bet

[The Yeti]

Originally Posted by Yellow_Festiva

If memory serves, it is not as involved as a full blue slip, I had one done when I swapped an engine and the guy tried to charge me the full rate. The ID check is a lower fee. This was several years ago now but perhaps if you come from a state that doesn't do regular inspections a full blue slip is needed?

The RMS site has all this info broken down into each type and price.

An engine swap blue slip is just an ID check on the engine in the vehicle, but an unregistered vehicle blue slip (an interstate car is classed as unregistered) is the full road worthy pinkslip inspection + ID check

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

I think that any workshop that charges less than 3/4 hr labour isn,t checking properly considering the time to check all moving parts,removing wheels to check rotor condition and pad wear,and removing brake drums to check lining thickness and drum diameters.PS i also think that some low mileage vehicles are in better condition than a 2 Y.O that has done over 100k and probably has worn out brakes and tyres yet doesn't require a check because it is less than required age.PPS in Tassie aren't even required for Rego transfer,should see some of absolute Sxxxheaps driving around here.

In NSW the inspection does not involve checking brake condition so pad thickness rotor thickness drum and lining thickness arn't checked, (or at least it didnt when I was doing them back in the late 90's) it simply checks performance via a brake performance inertia meter

[Tassie f100]

So if brake condition doesn,t matter I don,t suppose ball joints and tierod ends about to fall apart are classed as important either

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

So if brake condition doesn,t matter I don,t suppose ball joints and tierod ends about to fall apart are classed as important either

I don't see where anyone said that brake condition doesn't matter, when a car is on a hoist, suspension, pads, exhaust, underbody etc can be checked.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by GasOLane

I don't see where anyone said that brake condition doesn't matter, when a car is on a hoist, suspension, pads, exhaust, underbody etc can be checked.

Yeti said brake condition didn,t matter as long as they passed an inertia test which they would do even if they were worn below acceptable tolerences

[Focused]

I've just got back from the RTA and changing the license seems easy but the rego sounds painful. Are there any problems keeping the car rego'd in Victoria whilst living in NSW?

[The Yeti]

its not a big deal at all

if the car is safe, book it in for a blue slip then organise your greenslip and pay the rego and its all sorted

I used to love it when guys would try to get you to rush a pink slip when it was 89 days out of rego, I'd be paying the few dollars more for the blue slip and getting a full 12 months rego rather than paying the rego at nearly 3 months out and only getting 9 drivable months for the same rego fee

[The Yeti]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

So if brake condition doesn't matter I don,t suppose ball joints and tierod ends about to fall apart are classed as important either

Steering and suspension is VERY much as part of the inspection, just because the brakes aren't disassembled doesn't mean they arn't checked.

Its just that good pads and rotors / drums and linings doesn't mean the breaks will perform satisfactorily, and I can tell you if an inspector puts his foot down during the brake test and hears / feels metal to metal or a horrid shudder something will be said to the owner, the inspector CAN say that the vehicle isn't safe to drive and have it towed from his / her workshop if need be

I did this on a ZH Fairlane once that had 2 broken steering box mounting bolts

I was told I didn't know what I was talking about and that I was a FXXXXX n CXXX and so on. but I didn't want that car to share the same road as my family until it was roadworthy

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

Yeti said brake condition didn,t matter as long as they passed an inertia test which they would do even if they were worn below acceptable tolerences

I can assure you that pad thickness and rotor wear are checked, and a road test for the handbrake (although perhaps not to your seemingly high tolerance) along with ball joints, tie rods, oil leaks, exhaust system and so on ........ but they are looked at whilst up on a hoist............ Been there, seen that!

Workshops that are really picky will fail you for things like torn seats.

Originally Posted by Focused

but the rego sounds painful. Are there any problems keeping the car rego'd in Victoria whilst living in NSW?

The only painful part is paying our rego Fees.

The Ute in my Avatar was transferred from Qld 8 months ago, needing a Blue slip (Authorised Unregistered Vehicle Inspection) The entire process from inspection to Rego took all of a day and a $60 fee............
would've been quicker but I had shopping to do as well

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

So you reckon a mechanic is going to spend 2 hours to gross
Less than $40 yeah I bet

That's not what I said. The inspection is a set fee. It has nothing to do with how long the inspection takes.

The current fee is $37.40 for a light vehicle. The fee is set by the RMS.

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/regi...andinspections

You implied in your previous post that if they don't charge at least 3/4 hr labour that they are not doing the inspection properly.

Time is an irrelevant factor in the fee. It is a set fee and that's that. I mentioned 2 hrs for arguments sake.

Some places charge $35 even because thay can't be bothered with the change, some the 'correct' fee and NRMA members get a discount and only pay $20 or something similar.

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by The Yeti

An engine swap blue slip is just an ID check on the engine in the vehicle, but an unregistered vehicle blue slip (an interstate car is classed as unregistered) is the full road worthy pinkslip inspection + ID check

Thanks for clearing that up.